What fasteners / bolts to use on the engine

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diiulio

Junior Member
I am putting the 8ba together (slowly). I am missing a lot of bolts since they didn't come with the engine when I bought it. I am not looking to put SS bolts. So, I don't want to go down to the local Home Depot and buy cheap fasteners. I have a Fastenall near by and can order from grainger, but I was wondering what is a good finish and grade for the bolts on the engine? I am looking to put a bolt on that will last and not rust straight away. I will not be painting the bolts.

This is a 49-53 8ba engine.

I need bolts for:
Water pumps - I believe these are 3/8"-16 x 1 and 3/8"-16 x 1-7/8"
Carb to Intake - I need 6 of these, probably studs and nuts - 5/16"-18 x 1-1/4"
Intake manifold - (20) 3/8"-16x1-1/4"
Heads - I have the bolts, but read washers should be added even for factory bolts.
Bolt for the generator strap - I need to see what this size is
Nuts for the round plate on the bottom of the oil pan
Plug for the oil pan - need to check size

If any of the above sizes are wrong please let me know or if you have the sizes of the ones I am missing, that would be appreciated.

I have bolts for:
Head bolts - I plan on using the factory ones - these don't have a shoulder on them, is that ok?
Flywheel to crank
Pressure plate to flywheel
Oil pan
fuel pump
 
Be careful with the stainless steel bolts, they are not as strong as the originals and easier to break. They need to to torqued to a lower torque value! The bolt man can supply any original bolts you need. Don't even consider stainless bolts on anything other than decorative, do not use them on the flywheel to crank for example.

Note: after re-reading your OP. I think it says you are "not" considering SS, correct?
 
Correct. I do NOT want to use stainless steel. I am thinking something like a black oxide or similar finish. I will look into Roy.
 
I like the black oxide if you can find them. ARP? I have used then a lot on 5.0s not sure if they have a flathead kit, but they do sell individual bolts.
 
Would strongly recommend at least using washers under the head bolts, we do this on all Flathead's, SBC's, etc. They help keep the bolt bosses in good shape and aren't all that expensive.

I've put this up here a few times in the past! See the photo below (again). Those are new Flathead bolts with the washers we use, left photo, and two Flathead bolts showing the washers in place, right photo. They are very difficult to even see when assembled!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We use/sell a very high number the ARP fastener line and I will add this, over a period of time the "black-oxide" coating WILL give way to surface rust! It's inevitable.
 

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If you don't have a collection of original bolts, nuts and washers- go straight to Roy. You will save lots of time, money, gas money trying to find stuff at the hardware store and all the repeat trips for what you forgot (they don't have it anyway). Roy's stuff arrives at your doorstep in well marked packages so you do not wind up with the bucket of bolts. The best way to do this is get his catalog and read and study it from cover to cover. You will learn so much about these old Fords.
Just an opinion
 
diiluo

You are right NOT using SS in most applications listed, SS is a "relatively" soft material and strength wise on par with Grade 2/A307 Hex bolts but are good for Higher temperatures than a standard grade 2. Grade2 (approx. 200-250Dg) Stainless can push up to 650. When using SS use anti seize on the threads at least. Grade 5 bolts are good up to 120,000 psi tensile and good to about 400dg. in plain finish or black oxide finish. Grade 8 is 150,000 tinsile and good to about 650dg. Don't use any plated bolts in high temp applications if you can avoid it. ANY bolts sold by ANY reputable source and is marked as A307, grade 5 or grade 8 is a good bolt....even foreign made bolts as they have to be tested by a lab, and records kept by the manufacturer by lot number to certify the quality of the material BUT your particular supplier may or may not have this information on hand or request it from the manufacturer.
 
GOSFAST said:
Would strongly recommend at least using washers under the head bolts, we do this on all Flathead's, SBC's, etc. They help keep the bolt bosses in good shape and aren't all that expensive.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
Click to expand...

Can you supply me with the correct head bolt washers for my 8BA build?

Thank You for your continuous support of this forum.,...jack
 
V12bill

No such thing "commercially" made as a grade 3 bolt. 3 radial hash marks on the head are Grade 5, 6 radial hash marks on the head are Grade 8. Plain head is Grade 2 OR you can have A307 which is also grade 2.
 
It sounds like you have head bolts - which is good. I personally would never use anything less than Grade 8 on the heads - as I want them to hold torque and give me a lot of clamping force. Also, I sometimes use different head washers depending on whether or not I'm running stock or aluminum heads. I like thicker washers on aluminum heads.

Another thing to ponder is black oxide and rust - if you don't want rust, then don't use black oxide. A place you might checkout is McMaster-Carr. They have an extensive line of high-quality fasteners (won't match stock - so if that is what you desire, go to Roy or another 'vintage fastener' firm).

Also, even the gold-cad plated stuff rusts . . . just give it a couple years and your fasteners will look quite poor. If the car is used in wet weather or sits outside, even worse.

Here is a link to some high-quality grade 8 bolts - with a special military coating I like 'Ultra Coating' (no, they won't match stock/standard Ford bolts as far as 'look'):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-head-cap-screws/=11xu0mp

Good luck,
Dale
 
For all the nuts and bolts that you say you "need", ordinary hardware nuts and bolts will suffice as none of the areas need any high strength hardware. My local Sears Hardware sell grade 5 bolts at a reasonable price and I usually use those.

You might reconsider using a stainless bolt in the water pump that goes inside the pump.

Totally Stainless sells high strength stainless bolts.

I use a lot on stainless hardware in my four cars and never had a galling problem when used with regular steel. The only time I had a galling problem is when I used a stainless bolt and a stainless nut, and that was a rare case.

If your doing a Concours car, then Roy is the guy to go to.

And the others are right. Any non stainless nut or bolt will eventually rust when subjected to damp or wet conditions..

When using a regular steel bolt or nut, I usually clear coat the head of the bolt and the nut as I drive my cars a lot and can get caught in rainy weather. They last longer but a know eventually they may have to be replaced because of rust.
 
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