What do you use to..

A block of wood, hammer, and a fuel barb works very well on gasket material and rubber welting. They come in various sizes in most fuel kits. So you probably already have a hand fuel of them already.

Not so good for frame welting though.

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heat up a 1/2" socket, and push down where the hole will be.
... A 12" extension helps from blistering your fingers.
This gives you smooth holes, have the stitches "locked" when melted.
 
I took the front fenders off my 29 tudor for the winter refinishing project. This is what happens if you are too lazy and just use your drill to make the hole.
 

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I took the front fenders off my 29 tudor for the winter refinishing project. This is what happens if you are too lazy and just use your drill to make the hole.

Not only that, but that welting don't look like any I've sever seen before.

Where did you buy it?
 
Not only that, but that welting don't look like any I've sever seen before.

Where did you buy it?

It was on the car when I got it. Just one more thing to add to the ever growing list of things that were not done correctly on this "restored" A. Hence my need to RE-restore it. At least this one is hidden. There are many more that are not! :(
 
Tom..

Isn't the correct type for frame welting a herringbone pattern?

Larry

It's been years since I've done the frame, so I don't recall the pattern, nor where I bought the kit, but it would have been A&L, Bert's Bratton's or Snyder's and looked very close to what remained of the original.
 
I found that any good sharp hole punch works well. I think the key to a good clean hole was to make sure the backer you drive the punch into is a somewhat hard material. I good solid piece of oak worked, but a heavy block of nylon material was best. If you can't find this a cheap plastic cutting board would probably work.

/Tony
 
I used those cheap plastic cutting boards from Harbor Freight.
They work perfect and you will never damage the tool edge that's cutting the hole.
 
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