What Do I Have -- CC Truck Back

R

rustybolt

Member
Why does this cab back not have a tack strip? What can I do to use this for my late 30 CC Truck. Should I weld a tack strip to it? Any idea or fix would be appreciated.
 

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I have a complete top wood kit. When I nail the rear wood bow in place I have no tack strip which is usually about an inch to inch an a half wide with the nail slots. When I bring my top material over what do i nail to and the back trim piece.
 
That cab back looks like the one on my late '31 steel top. The one on my early '31 soft top
looks like the one in Ray's link.

Bob
 
If you bought just the top wood kit I don't believe you got that piece with it.That comes with the cab/body wood kit.Just as the front wood header doesn't come in the top wood kit.I have some wood kits for the A pickup I bought years ago.The top kit is in one box,the body kit in another,the mounting blocks in another,and the front header is in a box by itself.
 
My big concern now is how to deal with not having a sloted tack strip. I have the rear wood piece but once tacked in place I just have bare wood that extends past that.
 
I did my top about 10 years ago , So memory might be a little off ;

The top piece of wood slots under those little ears on the back panel ,

The holes on the little ears are for the nails to attach the panel to the wood,

The spaces between the ears are where you nail chicken wire ,vinyl top material, &

finally the metal trim piece, not forgeting to put some sealant in there to help stop leaks !!

You have to space all the little nails carefully to allow space for each layer
I think mine was just like yours you don't get a lot of room .

Slide your piece of wood in there and you should see what I mean !!

Good Luck with it, Mine does't leak ,

Though I do get some water in from around the firewall in a heavy rain but can't blame that on the roof job!!!

John Cochran
 
I guess I don't understand what you are saying about a slotted tack strip.The rearmost piece shown in Bob's pictures should stick out to the ends of those tabs across the back of your cab.That piece is missing in your picture.That part is part of the cab structure,not a part of the top wood kit.Are you tacking the bows into the side runners,with the last 4 or 6 inches just hanging out in mid air behind the last bow?
 
Look at slides 14 & 15 in 700 rpm's link good photos of the area your worried about

That's the way it is .Have you got the sheet metal side pieces ?

Hold one of those up there with the wood in place and you' ll see the tack area
Hope this helps
John
 
Look how the pictures below are different than his cab back, I think that is what he
is asking about.

Bob
 

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I have the side pieces. The picture from Bob C shows exactly what I'm concerned about. Thanks for the picture. I guess I can weld a piece to the exiting tabs. Does anyone have a cab back that's not useable with a tack strip that could be cut off that I could buy?
Again thanks for the picture.
 
Now I see what you are looking for.I put one together a few years ago for myself,and bought a used cab back with the tabs with holes instead of slots.That's why I recognized what you have right off.Maybe the backs we have are for the later steel top trucks.My tabs are a little different than yours,but along the same idea.It was easier to nail the back of the roof down than it was to nail the front and two sides.I got to thinking about it and went out to the shed to look at a cab back I have for the next A I'm building.That one has the slots and the solid bar across the seam.I fitted the wood on mine so it would pick up all the tabs,as it came from the box it wouldn't completely pick up the seam.
 
rustybolt said:
I have the side pieces. The picture from Bob C shows exactly what I'm concerned about. Thanks for the picture. I guess I can weld a piece to the exiting tabs. Does anyone have a cab back that's not useable with a tack strip that could be cut off that I could buy?
Again thanks for the picture.
Click to expand...

Might it not be simpler to fabricate (or have fabricated) a Z-strip to the proper dimensions and tack it on between your existing sheet metal and your new wood? Welding seems like an extreme answer and harder to correct if you need or want to undo it in the future for whatever reason.

But even as I say that, I think someone here must have an example of a similar situation and a proper solution for the way it was done originally.:confused:
 
It would be good if someone had a fix or had the same problem. I like the idea of a z strip. I will start looking for a cab to measure and make a strip.
 
So,when you put the rear header in,the big cross piece,(not the skinny bows) it doesn't line up with that seam?You should be able to install that rear header and nail the top of the cab down to it with those tabs.How about a picture looking up at it through the windshield hole with the rear header sitting in there.
 
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