What 5.0L ord engine do I have

J

jhljr44@yahoo.com

Member
What have I got? This came in my 55 F-100. I have no clue. It has an Edlelbrock 4bbl and manifold and dual exhaust. I'll enclose a picture
of the crate tag. Thank You again for your help.
 

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I searched the number and found that it is a "discontinued part." Being a remanfactured long block, the manifolds and carburetor were most likely added after purchase. Note that the original build date of the engine would precede 1979. Hopefully, you can find date codes on the engine.
 
D9AZ 6V012-BRM (LGB156RM) - DATED 12/19/11 -

It's hard to say exactly what it is (was) as the PN was dropped from the system. D9 indicates 1979 but this being a reman, that will not nail the exact application. It was released for many applications.

If you need to know exactly what you have, you will have to find the block/heads CASTING I.D.NOS/CASTING DATE CODES. Is there a re-builders tag anywhere on the block?

FORD offered several degrees of remans during this period. Yours has both a FORD P&A and MOTORCRAFT PN.

Now this is the engine you are asking about timing on in another thread? Do you know how many miles the engine has on it?
 
My avatar also has a 302 in it. Above the starter the casting numbers are "D1357". I know about D1 meaning but does anyone know what the remaining numbers represent?

jhljr...have looked at your casting number above the starter?
 
50fordcoupeman said:
My avatar also has a 302 in it. Above the starter the casting numbers are "D1357". I know about D1 meaning but does anyone know what the remaining numbers represent?

jhljr...have looked at your casting number above the starter?
Click to expand...

Have you looked under the starter or possibly behind it?
 

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50fordcoupeman said:
Yes this is where I got my casting number.
Click to expand...

... hmmpf ...

This is a puzzler. No DATE CODE, FOUNDRY MARK or MOLD NO.?

Do you know if it is a 302 or 5.0L? One piece rear seal and/or roller cam? Somebody has the answer and I am as curious as yourself.
 
KULTULZ said:
... hmmpf ...

This is a puzzler. No DATE CODE, FOUNDRY MARK or MOLD NO.?

Do you know if it is a 302 or 5.0L? One piece rear seal and/or roller cam? Somebody has the answer and I am as curious as yourself.
Click to expand...

I dont know. I had the starter off to replace it. I misinterpreted the casting number and thought it was a 1975, but the new starter would not fit in the hole so I had my starter rebuilt.
 
KULTULZ said:
... This is a puzzler. No DATE CODE, FOUNDRY MARK or MOLD NO.?...
Click to expand...
toby said:
D9AZ. A=Generic, Z=Ford service part.
Click to expand...
50fordcoupeman said:
... I misinterpreted the casting number and thought it was a 1975...
Click to expand...
50fordcoupeman,
Any numbers & letters cast or stamped into the block will be helpful.
As a "Ford" re-manufactured block it may be possible they ground off the original ID numbers. :confused:

There are probably better easily accessible links/webpages out there for breaking down general casting numbers and date codes, but for a general understanding of the subject this one might do 'til something better comes along... and there are a few additional links at the bottom of the page.

https://www.fordification.com/tech/datecodes.htm
 
I have no doubt the OP is reading the CODE correctly.

The problem is it does not follow common protocol. You would need all CASTING ID from the block including any codes in the tappet valley.

D1357 will not give an exact DATE CODE. That should be somewhere else on the block along with foundry and assembly date.

Do you have any idea of where the engine came from?
 
KULTULZ said:
I have no doubt the OP is reading the CODE correctly.

The problem is it does not follow common protocol. You would need all CASTING ID from the block including any codes in the tappet valley.

D1357 will not give an exact DATE CODE. That should be somewhere else on the block along with foundry and assembly date.

Do you have any idea of where the engine came from?
Click to expand...

No unfortunately, the engine was in the car when I purchased the vehicle. Starts and runs very good, no issues at all.
 
Here's a couple things that may help narrow down your block. The 302's after 1981 have a 50 oz imbalance crank. The harmonic balancer has a much larger counterweight on the inside than the earlier 28 oz., as does the flywheel or flexplate. It's not easy to see the back of the balancer, but you can with a mirror.
Also, beginning in 1975, the left side of the block at the rear is no longer cast for the threaded hole that the clutch equalizer shaft pivot ball screwed into. Some automatic cars also used this threaded hole for shift linkage brackets.
In 1985 the Mustang blocks got roller cams, pickups not until 1987. If it's a roller block, there will be 2 small bosses cast into the lifter area where the tin spyder is bolted down that retains the lifter guide plates
 
The motor has 8500 miles on it. 7200 when i got it. I got the timing fixed. The distributor was not grounding to the block. Cleaned the tie down bolt and holder and that fixed the problem. Found it with an ohm meter.
It has a edelbrock 4bbl and dual plane edelbrock performer manifold. Dual 2 inch exhaust. Going for pointless distributor conversion. It has way more power than i expected.
 
Ford was already calling them 5.0 in 78. The small blocks were always an over achiever, had to be on the drafting boards in the late 50's. From Shelby's to Town Cars and F-150's. Australia managed to get some wicked horsepower out of them before the end came. 61 to 02.
 
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