What 12 volt battery and where ?

@Eagle - There is a de-sulfater to pep up lead-acid batteries:
https://www.thermoil.com/
The company also has an oil which is meant to trap the hydrogen as it is released thereby preventing it from escaping and causing corrosion etc.

By the way, “snake oil salesmen” had a bad reputation because their products were not actual snake oil, but cheap who-knows-what. Real snake oil was believed to have restorative powers.
 
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...I have mentioned numerous times on this Forum, I use ThermOil in my batteries.

https://www.thermoil.com

@Eagle - There is a de-sulfater to pep up lead-acid batteries:
https://www.thermoil.com/

The company also has an oil which is meant to trap the hydrogen as it is released thereby preventing it from escaping and causing corrosion etc.


I would like to revive this post if possible. )

For those who have successfully used this Thermoil, how have you typically installed the Thermoil? Is the requirement plan to first find a battery that has a removable top? I recently went thru this on a battery that I needed to only add water however I was unsuccessful in finding a way to get the top off.
 
I would like to revive this post if possible. )

For those who have successfully used this Thermoil, how have you typically installed the Thermoil? Is the requirement plan to first find a battery that has a removable top? I recently went thru this on a battery that I needed to only add water however I was unsuccessful in finding a way to get the top off.

Yes, you will need a battery with removable caps. I add 2 oz. Battery oil per cell. My lead/acid battery is now well over 8 years old. No corossion on terminals or surrounding area. The oil floats on top of the electrolyte so the acid does not escape out the vents with the hydrogen bubbles when charging. Very rarely have to add any distilled water.
 
As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren
 
As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren

I made a battery hold down like depicted in post #20. Thanks for the design idea Bob.
 
As a added word of caution, I installed a group 25 also. The top posts are on the transmission side with the + towards the front. I found the + cable clamp dangerously close to the hold down plate so I cut a piece of inner tube that went around the post and extended over the plate to prevent any possibility of shorting.. No problem with cable length.
Warren

I made a battery hold down like depicted in post #20. Thanks for the design idea Bob.

So when you guys have converted to the Group 25, you have also converted the electrical system to Negative Ground, ...correct??
 
When I look at the Group 25 battery in the photo in Post #20, I see the battery posts are both on the frame side of the battery box.

I think it is better to have the battery posts on the transmission side. That gives a straight shot for the starter cable to pass up to the post on the starter switch.

Have you looked at a Group 34R battery? It seems to be the same size. See photo.
10" long
6.88" wide
7.63" high

Then the posts are both on the transmission side. The positive post is toward the front. Getting a ground cable over to the ground post of the battery is easy, especially if you are going to add a ground disconnect switch.
 

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