welding a block

Actually, no we're not done yet. I brazed a hole on my flathead oiling passage an hour ago. Came onto the Barn to see if what I did will work. Here's the story.............

I drilled out and tapped my 59A per the thread here regarding full-flow conversion. Anyway, I DRILLED THRU MY OIL PASSAGE AT THE 45degree bend near the pump.
I sleeved it in copper, leaks under pressure, so I BRAZED it from the outside. Will this hold oil pressure? Or leak inside the bellhousing? Hole was about 1/8 diameter and very very thin walled. Braze seemed to flow well after gentle oxy/acet heating.

Wish I could verify my weld somehow, didn't come loose when I tried to pick at it. Maybe an insurance coat of JB Weld for good luck?
 
coilover said:
Always wondered how Ford welded the entire sides onto the 1937 V8 60 block. They were welded with one continuous bead around the entire perimeter and the weld was beautiful.
Click to expand...
That 37 60hp block with the welded stainless sides didn't work, evryone I've seen had some of the weld broke loose and leaks water. Henry scrapped that idea in 38 and made the rest of the block with cast iron sides. Walt
 
If the brazing job "wetted-in" and is continuous in the damaged area it should be easily capable of holding back the oil.

Now, regarding electric welding of cast iron---there are more repairs made to cast iron using the stick electrode process than all the other welding processes COMBINED. Some more successful than others. To suggest the stick process is not viable is a demonstration of ignorance.
 
Is it OK to post now? LOL
This is what it looks like once I started picking away at the weak spot.
A little big for a pipe plug, as I would have to go to 1/2" and I am worried there is not enough meat for the threads. I'm going to talk to the machine shop about a freeze plug. After all, weren't the early blocks equipped with a similar setup?
 

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Welding should be a last resort. Why weld a low pressure area when it can be "repaired" with epoxy (s). It's not a structural issue so there are lots of options. Best might be to drill and tap for pipe threads. Locktight in a tapered cast iron plug and grind smooth. One coat of POR 15 and "no hole"!
 
This is a subject that can go on forever like "what kind of oil should I use". Lots of opinions, some fact and some stories. I just went through a complete education on correctly welding cast iron by a company that does this every day on large diesel engines , blocks and heads. They do all the remanufactured blocks and heads and cranks for the big famous doesel engine manufactures that we all know. They weld cracks anywhere on an engine and typically large diesel heads have 20 to 50 major cracks it it when it goes to "reman". These parts go back into service with the OEM warrentty. Therefore these guys know what they are doing. I have toured their shop and they have repaired a block for me.
Without going into too much detail, they have a few rules for repairing cast iron.
Except for small parts or covers, etc. Cast iron cannot be repaired in the field. The entire part must be heated and cooled under controlled conditions. Do not try this unless you know what you are doing.
Brazing works great on cast iron for non structural areas.
Electric welding must never be done, it will eventually crack and leak. This includes the world's greatest TIG welder.
Only ox acetyene can be used and with a very very large tip.
Filler rod must be actual grey cast iron. Never use anything else, even the special nickel rods or any other "wonder" material. It will always crack later.
These cracks that we get excited about in our flatheads are nothing to the real guys. They can easily be repaired by the people that do this for a living.
Thanks
Floyd
 
New opinion:-)
If the pipeplug don't work
Id make a nice clean hole, make a steel plug and silver solder it in place.
 
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