Weird electrical problem?

BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Bob, I have some friends that think a "little" oil leak helps keep the headlight switch contacts from wearing, prevents corrosion, & makes the switch operate smoothly???:D Some others think 3 drops of oil will destroy their switch???:eek: Mine works perfectly, so, I'm NOT even going to look inside it! :confused:
Bill W.
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Some oil won't hurt and will help to keep away corrosion, as long as dirt doesn't mix with it. The dried oil/dirt will prevent good contact, but I haven't seen that as a problem on a Model A that gets driven.
 
Another update: Since I did the cleaning of the light switch a few weeks ago, the lights and horn have all continued to work flawlessly.

(To Brentwood Bob: My battery connection at the frame is just as you described... clean, bright, solid, and with a star lockwasher installed).
 
i, too , had numerous electrical problems and a fire that burned all electric wiring except for headlights and taillights which weren't hooked up . Got with Mike's in Ga and replaced the following, distributor with modern upper plate. Terminal box with new wiring for dash . Ammeter with plastic cover nuts on back. Sanded down dash cavity and masked, then 4 successive coats of liquid rubber. Found generator was still working but not starter . Auto Zone will test them for free. Bought new battery from Tractor Supply along with new cables. Thing on top of generator (works like a regulator ) was replaced by an "electronic" one . Bought 6 volt positive ground alternator just in case. Replaced coil .Added fuse AND cut off switch . After all this it cranked once and refused subsequent tries. On a hunch I removed ground wire from factory location to bolt on top of transmission. Works ! These things are simple autos that most can work on with a few tools. The Devil is in the details. Always. Previously chattering/sticking clutch solved by driving about 50 miles .
 
My Coupe has a 12-volt system with an alternator. The alternator does not always self-start, so the lights are dim and horn motor barely turns. However, the battery does not go dead in my car.

As for the dead battery, I suspect that the diode trio in your alternator is allowing a small battery current back-flow through it.

If you race the engine, the alternator should self-energize and start charging. Take your Model A to a local competent shop and have your alternator checked.
 
I had trouble last week and missed a show. When I got it home had about 6V on the batt but wouldn't turn it over. Charged the batt and OK but not charging. It's an alt but hasn't shown charge in quite a while. Pulled the alt and took it to a shop in E Hartford, CT (Bernie's on main st). He said it was gummed up inside (probably been on there since late 80's/early 90's) Took a cut on the rotor and new brgs. Now I show charge when started and settles down like it should in about 10 min. Tweaked the points and adj'd carb. Hasn't run this good in 3 years.

Paul in CT
 
That's one thing that continues to amaze me... I have a 6-volt wet-cell battery in my car that is about 4 years old now... I try to drive the car every few weeks, especially during the slow (as in, no car show) season. Yet, this battery refuses to die, nor to even temporarily run down.

I'd like to replace it someday with an Optima gel-mat battery... but the way this thing keeps on going, it may be a few more years before I can justify doing so!
 
Bobs29ModelA said:
That's one thing that continues to amaze me... I have a 6-volt wet-cell battery in my car that is about 4 years old now... I try to drive the car every few weeks, especially during the slow (as in, no car show) season. Yet, this battery refuses to die, nor to even temporarily run down.

I'd like to replace it someday with an Optima gel-mat battery... but the way this thing keeps on going, it may be a few more years before I can justify doing so!
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So, you are having real good luck with the much less expensive lead/acid battery...............then why do you want it to die, so you can buy the other battery? As Mike said, they are no longer what they once were.

I get over 10 years out of my 6 volt common lead/acid batteries.
 
I guess I should have worded it a little differently... and just said that, when its standard wet-acid battery DOES decide to die, I intend to replace it with an Optima gel-mat battery... as I've had really good luck with those Optimas in my modern iron!
 
Bobs29ModelA, after rereading the first post and then later learning you have electronic ignition, your problem of nothing working except the engine could start and run, had to be the terminal box connection or the ammeter connections. or a small chance the power wire from the ignition switch, The switch was rewired to now supply power, rather than complete the ground circuit for the coil.

I have a feeling when you removed and reinstalled the wires on the rear of the ammeter you fixed the problem. Were the ammeter nuts tight and clean?
 
Hi Tom,

Well, the one undeniable thing about these aftermarket/replacement ammeters is that they're all of cheap quality, so my removing and then reconnecting the wires on the back of it could have somehow fixed a bad internal connection inside the ammeter... although the terminals on the back of the ammeter were indeed spotlessly clean as well. I did realize after the fact, however, that that ammeter had not been indicating ANY kind of reading for months before the "no lights" condition first presented itself... and I just didn't notice (or even care about it)... at least until my lights and horn stopped working months later.

Perhaps it was a combination of two things going on, but there is no doubt that degreasing the contacts of the lighting switch (below the steering gear) was a large factor in resolving my problem.
 
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