Weird brake question

B

bdotson

Member
31 pickup brakes were above average. I removed the wheels had them powder coated when I replaced the wheels I noticed it changed the brake adjustment. My left front had tight spots I had to back the adjuster off to get the wheel to free wheel. Can you over torque the wheels and distort the drum? There were two stripped studs on the right front. I noted all the lugs were "loose" when I removed them. Anyone ever run into anything like this?:confused:
 
Yes,I have seen drums pulled out of plane by overtightening,or uneven tightening.If you have stripped studs you have other problems.Are the threads stripped,or are the studs spinning in the holes?Either way you will need new ones swedged in at the very least,if they have spun it may have ruined the hub.After that is done the drum will have to be turned as the process warps the drum/hub assembly.I had to replace all four drums on a 29 pickup a few years ago because somebody here on Fordbarn told the owner to tighten his lugs to 100 foot pounds.All the studs Mae Wested,and we figured that if he replaced them there was not enough meat to turn off the drums after to true them up.He went with new cast.
 
Ummmm, in thinking about this some, I'm not so sure over-torquing would do anything. While I have not experienced this situation, my initial feeling is if only R&R-ing (removing & Replacing) wheels changed the brake setting, I would be more inclined to believe the drums are not properly swaged on and they are what is moving when the wheels are tightened.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Ummmm, in thinking about this some, I'm not so sure over-torquing would do anything. While I have not experienced this situation, my initial feeling is if only R&R-ing (removing & Replacing) wheels changed the brake setting, I would be more inclined to believe the drums are not properly swaged on and they are what is moving when the wheels are tightened.
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I to was wondering if there was a problem with the swaging. I do need to replace two studs as the threads are bad. I am thinking it might be money well spent to just go on and get new cast drums and new studs at the same time then when I get them trued I will be done. What do you think? best buy on drums?
 
bdotson said:
...I removed the wheels had them powder coated when I replaced the wheels I noticed it changed the brake adjustment...:confused:
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You probably have an uneven build-up of powdercoat on the contact areas of the wheel. Others have reported that this build-up can be enough to cause the drum to be pulled out of round.

I used a flap sanding wheel to remove the coating from the rim of the wheel hub and the inner contact ring on all my wheels.

Sounds as if you have other problems as well--Keith and Brent have covered them.

Joe
 
bdotson said:
31 pickup brakes were above average. I removed the wheels had them powder coated when I replaced the wheels I noticed it changed the brake adjustment. My left front had tight spots I had to back the adjuster off to get the wheel to free wheel. Can you over torque the wheels and distort the drum? There were two stripped studs on the right front. I noted all the lugs were "loose" when I removed them. Anyone ever run into anything like this?:confused:
Click to expand...

As to your Q: 'can you over torque the whls and distort the drum'
I'll restate your question to say: can UNEVEN torqueing distort the drum..answer yes.
Now you have 'stripped studs'. Over torqueing can definitely strip studs, but if you 'over torque' each stud evenly and with proper torque sequence (without stripping stud) all should pull evenly....
 
I use a standard sized 4 handled lug wrench to take the wheels off and use a mini 4 handled lug wrench to install the wheels ever since I snapped off a stud on my Blazer by over torquing with the standard wrench. The smaller wrench keeps me from over torquing lug nuts even if I use all my strength. The lug nuts then are always easy to remove with the standard wrench.
 
I powder coated my wheels and put cast drums on my car. Doing the work myself I check my work.

While I had a front drum rigged to check run out on the inside cut I put on one of my wheels. I went from .001 out of round to .013. Took the wheel off and found an uneven build up of PC on the contact rings. Sanded to bare metal and put by on the test jig. Went back to the .001.

The best tool to use to attach the lug nuts is the original crank. You will get a very even torque by pulling up evenly. The cross lug tool may not be as even because you are pressing an pulling and you can do this inconsistently. Depends on the person and how they 'feel' what they are doing. The original crank just requires repeating an upward pull with your legs, less chance for error.
 
this has not been mentioned just something that came to mind. what about from jacking up the car to put the wheels on the suspension pulled the brake rods and something did not return to its original position and the brakes were slightly applied.. the same scenario could happen when lifting the car and the suspension hangs the wheels lock up. maybe its just coincidence it happened to the same wheel as the studs..
 
Update I did not strip the lugs they were already stripped. This was the first time I had the wheels off. There was a huge amount of powder coat build up and I think it pulled the drums out of round. Now for the repair I bought new cast iron drums with hubs installed to fix the stripped lugs because the drums were worn anyway. Then I found one bad track on the left front welded it up and remachined it. Wow new brakes and it stops hard and straight. Next I will do the rears with new drums thanks for the advice on the powder coat build up.:)
 
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