weeping head bolts or sduds

O

offy19

Member
Any suggestions on procedure on preventing studs or bolts from leaking. Not yet installed. Thanks for the help
 
Yes, "Aviation Permatex" on the threads. The non hardening kind. It is the best. Better than the teflon thread sealers. Take a q-tip and smear it in the threads in the block, as well as in the threads of the studs or bolts.
 
Russ/40 said:
Yes, "Aviation Permatex" on the threads. The non hardening kind. It is the best. Better than the teflon thread sealers. Take a q-tip and smear it in the threads in the block, as well as in the threads of the studs or bolts.
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I AGREE;

Have been using Non-Hardening Permatex for years,

Definately DO NOT use Teflon Tape.

Chris
 
Thanks Russ/40 sounds like good advise. I will let you know how well it works for me. (I tried the teflon thread sealer last time with poor results)
 
I tried the liquid Teflon sealers with miserable results. Never again. If you do get any temporary seepage, be sure to wipe it off your newly painted heads before you get any stains.
 
I use high temp RTV..Apply and let dry for 20 minutes before installing the stud finger tight.
 
The bolts don't usually have any trouble on the 8BA style engine, but the studs and nut on the older engines. After puting some kind of sealer on the studs in the block, If you have a few nuts that don't seem to want to seal after a couple of retorquing, remove the nuts and put some RTV on the threads of the stud and retorque the nuts. ther'll stop leking. Walt
 
I've always used Indian Head shellac on the flatty head bolts with no problems. They come back out just fine if I have to remove them ( just replaced a sticky valve and head gasket ) . Seal up and no leaks.

Barry

50 F-1
 
I used thread sealant purchased at my local Menards. It contained kevlar and is good to 400 degrees. All characteristics of the expensive permatex brands except 20 times cheaper. 16oz for about $3.
 
I agree get out if you are not willing to pay. But I do not like to waste money. As a chemist, I do not like paying for exact same ingredients just because of a proprietary name. Excedrin/acetomenophen exact same thing only more expensive. Sorry bad habit of mine.

Also when I researched the permatex you mentioned it is a gasket material, not intended as a thread sealant. The recommended permantex thread sealant (by permatex)was $6 for 0.2 ounce.

This is the permatex sealant correct for the application :

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm
 
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When I read some of these threads on rebuilding the old engines I think back to the days when we ran the things as daily transportation. If the engine needed an overhaul it was done over the weekend because you needed to get to work on monday. Due to lack of time and or funds,necessity became the mother of invention. Head gaskets were reused,gooped up with permatex aviation sealer. For other gaskets we had three choices of thickness,calendar page,cereal box or shoe box. If a poured bearing was loose and out of shims,you filed the cap. I once took all four throws of a crank down .020 using a flat file and emory tape. That engine is still running. It's surprising how you can make do when you have to.
 
Barry-ct said:
I've always used Indian Head shellac on the flatty head bolts with no problems. They come back out just fine if I have to remove them ( just replaced a sticky valve and head gasket ) . Seal up and no leaks.

Barry

50 F-1
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I agree with Barry.Good Stuff.:)
 
I did mean to get into an argument with Ronnie. I respect everyone who contributes to this site. I thought that I might contribute an inexpensive alternative to an old problem. I have used Indian Head Shelac for more than 50 years for mostly gaskets. My bottle dried up and as above I wanted to fix the problem before Monday. I was just saying that this new stuff is cheap and works quite well. Kevlar is quite amazing stuff.
 
I don't think it was an argument just a good old discussion about a couple of chemicals that both seem to be accepted as a good way to seal head bolts.
Speaking of things that work well did you know that MALOX works quite well as an anti seize on nuts and bolts. Pam cooking spray for a weld spatter. Candle wax and heat for stud removal. We should start a thread for obscure uses of well known chemicals and their uses. I bet you could name many due to your background.Keep on posting your turn.

Regards

Ronnie
 
" Pam cooking spray for weld spatter."
Another well known use of Pam is to keep mud from sticking to the car.
Very popular among the sprint car racers..They have a product called Mudoff but Pam is a whole bunch cheaper.
Very few people drive their A's in bad weather any more but it is something to keep in mind. Makes cleaning the car up a whole lot easier.
It won't hurt the paint.
 
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