Are you saying that the resistor under the dash shouldn't be used with a can style coil? I plan on getting some resistance readings of my components today if all goes well.
Weak Spark
- Thread starter mb_camper
- Start date
Are you saying that the resistor under the dash shouldn't be used with a can style coil? I plan on getting some resistance readings of my components today if all goes well.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
It most likely does not need a resistor. Move the wire from the ignition switch to the resistor to the same terminal as the wire from the resistor to the coil. This will bypass the resistor. Make sure the ignition wire is connected to the (-) terminal on the coil and the (+) terminal on the coil is connected to the distributor.
Ok, update time. I picked up another coil on the way home just in case, I checked resistance on the old coil on the primary side I had 1.6 ohms and 9k ohms on the secondary. the new coil measured 1.3 ohm primary and 9k ohms secondary which made me think both coils are fine. i did opt to install the new coil and jumped the resistor under the dash and have the best spark i have ever had in this car. that is the good, the bad is no matter what i do i cannot get the car started to save my life. i have checked spark, fuel, put no 1 cylinder on TDC and made sure the rotor is pointing straight down at number one plug wire, checked firing order to make sure one of my helpers didn't do me any favors all with no success. I did find allot of sediment in the fuel bowl and cleaned it out but i am confident that i am getting fuel (as a matter of fact it seems to be flooding). What am i missing? Just as a sidebar i pulled the firing order off for the internet and i looked at a couple of sites to make sure they were correct and on all of them they showed No 1 Plug wire at the 12 o'clock position on the distributor and mine is at 6 am i reading too much into this?
JSeery
Member Emeritus
That will not give you the correct position. On a 4 cycle engine there are 2 times the crank will line up with the indicator, and only one of them is correct. You have to assure that the piston is coming up on the compression stroke (both valves closed). The engine will only fire properly when the engine is on the correct cycle.
Remove the number one spark plug and rotate the engine until you can fill the compression and align the timing marker on that cycle. The diagram has overhead valves, but the engine cycles are the same.
Remove the number one spark plug and rotate the engine until you can fill the compression and align the timing marker on that cycle. The diagram has overhead valves, but the engine cycles are the same.
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I did do that when I first got the car to get it running initially. Remember the car was running quite well with only a slight flutter on my vacuum gage tapped into the intake just 2 days ago. Then I jumped the - on the coil to the - battery post. It died and that’s the last time it ran.
fordv8j
Senior Member
I was having starting problems with my 38, running a 49-53 round coil, called Dick FLYNN, he said to bypass the resister under dash, did that a few years ago, will always start even when hot, puts 6 volts to coil, no point problems
JSeery
Member Emeritus
So nothing has changed with the distributor and the timing since the last time it was running? If so and you have a spark and fuel and compression it should fire. Have you tried something like starter fluid? A small squirt should tell you if the plug is firing in the cylinder.
By the way, there is always what is considered a correct position and plug wire arrangement on a distributor. It doesn't really matter IF you understand what your doing and are sure you have the rotor aligned with the correct terminal on the cap for the #1 plug wire and the other wires installed correctly from that starting point.
Exactly, now you see my dilemma. The only thing that changed in the distributer was a slight adjustment to line up the rotor to number one (less than 1/4 inch rotation) and only after I confirmed I was getting both fuel and spark. I am getting a nice blue spark at the points and a good spark at the plug. I pulled the plugs and the were wet with gas. Dried, cleaned checked compression and replace each plug. Confirmed firing order again still only coughs and tries to catch but never does.
That was always my understanding as well when it comes to plug wires, I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.
That was always my understanding as well when it comes to plug wires, I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something.
supereal
Well-known member
Ignition condensers form an important part of the system. If they become weak or open, the spark will be severely diminished because the coil can't fully recharge between point cycles. We seem to be having a big problem with the quality of replacement condensers
today, almost all foreign made. If you are doing a routine tune up. and the engine is running OK, reusing the condenser is preferable to new non US made. I carry a spare condenser in my "road kit". I has clip leads on it and can be quickly installed connecting the leads between ground and the input terminal to the coil.
today, almost all foreign made. If you are doing a routine tune up. and the engine is running OK, reusing the condenser is preferable to new non US made. I carry a spare condenser in my "road kit". I has clip leads on it and can be quickly installed connecting the leads between ground and the input terminal to the coil.
willing to share your knowledge, I am glad I found this forum!