Waterpump Modern Front Bearing?

30Tudor

30Tudor

Senior Member
I am considering putting the modern bearing race and shaft sleeve supplied by Brattons on my waterpump. Does anybody have any experience with these they could share? How difficult is it to get the sleeve on and what happens if I ever have to replace the rear seal?

Here is the discription.

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This set has a hardened sleeve which you press on your W.P. shaft (your shaft must be .625 diam.). The matching internal needle bearings roll on the hardened sleeve. The tolerance on this set is better than the original giving a smoother roll and less vibration. If using an alternator, this bearing will withstand the additional load better than the stock bearing. This set is the same size as the original bearing and sleeve. Instructions included.
 
Been using the Torrington Bearing and Race when rebuilding water pumps for a number of years. Be sure to get the bearing with a grease hole as they are made both ways, with and without. Use hand press to install the race.
 
30Tudor said:
I am considering putting the modern bearing race and shaft sleeve supplied by Brattons on my waterpump. Does anybody have any experience with these they could share? How difficult is it to get the sleeve on and what happens if I ever have to replace the rear seal?
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If you have a press, putting on the race (and taking it apart later if a seal is needed) is easy. More troubling to me is that the one I put on has a significant amount (5-10 thou) of slop in it. I'm guessing it's between the outer race and the original sleeve in the casting. Anybody else have a problem with excess play in these assemblies?
 
I use the modern front bearing and sleeve from Bratton on all the model A and B waterpumps that I rebuild for my cars. The modern bearing setup comes with good instructions, you don't need a press. The instructions state what size deep socket to use to drive the sleeve over the water pump shaft. Its not hard to do. I always buy the long stainless shaft with pinned impeller. This is not necessarily necessary but you need a new shaft of the correct diameter and having a shaft with the impeller already installed and pinned makes it a lot easier on me. The long shaft is not needed if you are using a new head. I like to have a rebuilt unit or two on the shelf in case I need one and I can easily grind and file a new shaft length down if I use it with a new head. I pretty much consider the modern bearing and sleeve a necessity for long life and reliability.

I haven't had any problems with this setup. The first one that I used 15 years ago is still going strong. If you ever need to remove the shaft you would have to drive out the pin that holds the impeller and pull the shaft out the front of the pump or cut the shaft. When i rebuild I use the brass rear bushing with 2 Chicago rawhide seals and the brass packnut with a seal from Bratton. You will end up with a water pump that will last a long time, maybe a lifetime and NO packing is used or needed.
 
Purdy - I just rebuilt my waterpump and probably only have 300 miles on it. I have the shaft with the pressed on impeller and I'm assuming it isn't worn. As you said, if I ever wanted to replace the rear seal, I would have to pull the shaft assembly through the front which means removing the impeller. With the modern front bearing should I order a new shaft with the pinned impeller? How much trouble would it be to remove the existing impeller and then pin it.
 
Interesting!! I just put the Bratton's kit in my water pump, since I had it out anyway for the crankshaft rebuild, and I had a difficult time getting that race pressed in! I have an original casting, and by the time I had it forced 1/2 way in, I was regretting not filing it out some to fit better. I did force it the rest of the way, but seemed to have a slight "click" in the bearing in one spot, might have been TOO tight a fit on the race. Seems smooth now after a few miles on it, might just have been rubbing against the back seal in one high spot, but I'd be sure to double-check the diameters (inner of casting, outer of the race) before committing to the press.
 
30Tudor, your water pump shaft needs to be .625 diameter according to Brattons catalog. If it measures up and you decide to use it you can drill and pin the impeller to the shaft without removing the impeller. It would be best to pin the impeller. I have heard lots of horror stories about the impeller slipping on the shaft and allowing the fan to strike and mess up the radiator.
 
Thanks Purdy. Good advise to drill and pin the impeller. How hard would it be to get the impeller off the shaft if it is press fit currently? Do I need a press or is it a couple of whacks with a hammer?
 
30Tudor said:
Thanks Purdy. Good advise to drill and pin the impeller. How hard would it be to get the impeller off the shaft if it is press fit currently? Do I need a press or is it a couple of whacks with a hammer?
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The last impellor I tried to press on a new shaft shattered. Might be worth it to just buy a new shaft with the impellor installed and pinned.
 
30Tudor, I'm sort of with Tom, I've had impellers to shatter. Its no big deal if it does a new one is only $5.75. If you really want to remove it if the shaft is still in the pump like it would be if the front bearing sleeve had been installed, would be to tap on the end of the water pump shaft. I usually take the easier way out and install the long stainless shaft with pinned impeller its only 21.00 . You could have your old shaft for a spare.
 
The waterpump on my modified deluxe delivery is an aftermarket part I bought at a swapmeet. The cavity where the big brass or cad plated nut usually is is covered and filled with waterproof grease It has at least 3000 miles on it now and hasn't leaked a drop. I had it off yesterday and tried to pin the impeller. The impeller drilled easily but the shaft must be hardened as the drill would not penatrate it. I did put a collar on the shaft as it had some spring loaded endplay.
 
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