Waterpump lube?

[Jim/GA]

The Ford Lubrication Chart of the era specifies that water pumps be lubricated by "pressure gun lubricant" which is the ordinary chassis lubricant of the era.

The question not answered today is if that 1930's data applies top todays chassis lubricants. Any expert out there?

My experience has been in my many years of Model A ownership I have always used chassis grease for the water pump, and have never had a radiator problem. Maybe I was right, maybe I was lucky, as I do not know the characteristic of todays chassis lubricant.

Grease is a very interesting material. In its most basic form, it is a mixture of oil and soap. The earliest soaps used were "calcium-based" soaps (hand soap, like Granny used to cook up in a big kettle out by the Cement Pond).
These were followed by sodium-based soaps.

Then chemists started cooking up new and improved soaps for use in grease, like lithium-based, which is more water resistant, and aluminum complex that withstands higher temperatures. After that, all kinds of additives were put in to help them withstand extreme pressure (EP grease).

Lithium-based grease was not invented until 1938 (patent granted in 1942), and was in common use starting in the 50's. So it, and "lithium complex grease", is common today (the most popular chassis grease today) but did not exist in the Model A era. Today's greases are different from back then. And you thought "grease was grease".

I suspect that all chassis grease used in the Model A era was a fairly low melting point calcium-based grease, which is why the lubrication chart calls for using the same grease gun everywhere. Then the oil companies started selling greases that melted at higher temperatures and Ford warned dealers not to use them on the water pump. This was even before the better lithium-based greases came out.

I think there are enough plugged-up Model A radiators out there to conclude that using "modern chassis grease" will eventually plug them up. I'll also bet that if you go crazy with the water pump grease, you will still plug it up after some time.

So go easy on the grease, and you are good. Get the water pump grease if you want to be on the safe side.

Most importantly, go drive your Model A and have fun!!!

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[Jim/GA]

Too late......I have a new standard pump. I have been told that you can loosen the large brass packing nut when lubing to keep the grease from getting into the coolant.....as it will push out the loose nut area (path of least resistance).

It will go in both places, mostly toward the impeller. When you loosen the packing nut, if water does not drip out of the water pump shaft, then the grease will not come that way either.

Best to just use a very short grease gun pump on that rear water pump fitting.

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[Jim/GA]

How about boat trailer wheel grease ?

These greases are designed to be "super water resistant". You will also see greases labeled as "marine grease" with the same goal: to not have the grease easily washed out in water.

That is one strategy for the water pump. But then you need to understand that any grease that DOES find its way into the coolant will flow to the radiator and will combine with any rust flakes and dirt in the system to plug it up.

I think you are better off with the grease that does dissolve in hot water.

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[bigd1101]

Very good discussion....boiling down to marine grease of some sorts and less is more. If one doesn't drive their A much.........plugging a radiator with grease should be a non issue. One thing is for sure........I know a LOT more about grease than I even thought I would...


Grease 101

 

[160B]

FWIW

I have been using LUBRIPLATE No. 115 water pump grease, it is a calcium based grease.

Link to Product data sheet

https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/3_13-100-Series.aspx

Info from the product data sheet:

"LUBRIPLATE No. 115 is the ideal water pump lubricant. These lubricants offer a long lasting film of protection for light duty applications"

“It has a Dropping Point of 210 deg F. per ASTM D-566”

Link to ASTM test method for dropping point

https://www.astm.org/Standards/D566.htm

Quote from the ASTM TEST sheet:

“In general, the dropping point is the temperature at which the grease passes from a semisolid to a liquid state under the conditions of test. This change in state is typical of greases containing as thickeners soaps of conventional types.”

 

[Synchro909]

For as long as I've been driving cars of this age (I had others before I bought my first Model A), I have used Penrite Water Pump Grease and only apply it using the screw on cap on the rear bearing. I loosen the gland nut and move he fan (shaft) back and forth as I screw the grease filled cap on. I often don't even use all of the tiny amount the cap holds. In each tub of grease, I mix about a teaspoonfull of powdered graphite. The bearing gets enough lubrication and there is no buildup in the cooling system!
If I'm using a pump with the standard front bearing, I give it only a "wiff" of chassis grease every couple of thousand miles.
It's VERY easy to over lubricate these pumps and I'd be surprised if nearly everybody isn't doing it. AS with most things, we cannot consider one thing without taking others into account. MOST people over tighten the fan belt without realising how much they are shortening the life of the front bearing. I leave the belt loose enough that there is about 2" of slack (that is, absolutely no tension) in it when flexed on the RHS of the motor. There is no need for it to be tighter. By the very design of a Vee belt, the more tension that comes on them by what they are driving, the more they are pulled into the vee and the more traction they have. That is, the automatically provide enough traction.
For long water pump life and a clean cooling system, use only a little lubrication and don't overtighten the belt.