Water pumps

S

STOCK 40

Junior Member
Hi guys i need to buy water pumps for stock 1940 85 hp v8 any response welcome .looking for increasd cooling thanks John
 
Send you old pumps top Skip, he will rebuild them with turbin impelers and pumps twice as much water. He has done a lot of pumps fpr me. Walt
 
Ditto to what Walt said. Send your pumps to George "Skip" Haney 12168 Azure Court Punts Gorda, FL 33955
Day 1-941-637-6698
Night 1-941-505-9085
SKIP@FORDSRUS.COM

Also, think about getting one of his radiator overflow check valves. They really helped the coolant loss problem on my '35 fordor.
 
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All good things have been said about Skip and he seems to be the master at them. I have also used the Speedway pumps and have been very satisfied as well.
 
If you are not interested in correct part numbers. Drake, Speedway,Carpenter make new pumps that are far better. You also get new castings as well as bearings, seals and improved impellars.
 
TomT/Williamsburg said:
All good things have been said about Skip and he seems to be the master at them. I have also used the Speedway pumps and have been very satisfied as well.
Click to expand...
I'm going on three years now with my pumps from Speedway, they were a drastic improvement over the stock ones.
 
quickchange34 said:
If you are not interested in correct part numbers. Drake, Speedway,Carpenter make new pumps that are far better. You also get new castings as well as bearings, seals and improved impellars.
Click to expand...
We love to have this debate every few months, and skip alway's wins. I had Walt Dupont rebuild my 59AB and at first, did not have my pumps done by skip.

I was pretty green and still am to this hobby and those nice colorfull vendor catologs told ME great things. I ordered a pair of those other than Ford water pumps, long story short the bolt holes were way off. Ask Walt

Now I know its not a vender issue its a manufacturing problem and the venders are as passonate about Ford restoration as we are. These thing happen, it's to bad. HAVE your original pumps redone by skip.:D Nuff said
 
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In over 12 years of rebuilding pumps and coils Skip has NEVER charged the few that had problems to fix the problem. G.M.
 
guys,,im still not convinced,,moving water faster thru the engine and radiator is the total answer...with the 180 stats wide open @ 70 mph turning 2500 rpms,ambiant temp @90 degrees july hot...just flatland interstate running...the temp rises depending on load even more..with a good clean system temps can hover at 205/210...if the water travels thru the radiator too fast, heat transfer is poor...back out of throttle to 55 mph and temp falls..that speed is what the engine was designed for or less..factor in luggage tools extra passengers...if engine is bored out.heat is closer to the water,which heats up faster,certain amount of scale in the water jacks rear cyls retard heat transfer...on and on and on..i run mechanical gages for 20 years..i pay close attention to my engine,i know its habits and likes and dislikes,,my block has 190,000 miles..bored to 060..mild cam..does well and is predictable..just my 2 cents worth.
 
I have to agree with all the above. I had over heating problems on last years New England tour. Good water flow is only one piece of the puzzle. I installed a pair of Skips pumps and saw an improvement. I still had considerable heat rise at slow speed conditions, Heavy traffic or parade pace. I experianced boil over again along with vapor lock this last Memorial day parade. Air temps were over 90°F in NH that day. So I added a 16" pusher fan in front of the radiator to help the crank mounted fan. It is set to turn on at 160°. When it turns on the the engine temp is maintained at 170°F. Today after curing a vacuum leak whistle on the rear carb I got a vacuum gauge hooked up to tune them. I could not a reading any higher 16" hg. I'm thinking late timing is not likely since the truck runs well. I adjusted the timing to get 18" hg. This engine turned into a completely different animal. Smoother and quieter idle and it runs cooler at idle. Throttle response and power is also much improved. So bottom line is there are 3 factors to keep a flat motor cool:
Water flow - heat transfer from block to water and water to radiator.
Air flow - heat transfer from radiator to air.
Ignition timing - minimize the generation of heat in the block exhaust ports.
 
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Good troubleshooting/result 41 ford. Have you tried a product called water wetter. I plan on using it in the 39, when I changed my radiator on my 77 F150 I did use it.

I did not do temp reading before and after, I used it for the rust inhibitor and Napa was promoting it @ the time. May drop the temp a few deg.s:D
 
I am running the mix that Skip recomends. 2 gallons of anti freeze, 2 16 oz bottles of Purple Ice, 1 bottle of pump lube and corrosion inhibiter, 1 bottle of Barrs leaks and the balance in water.

Here is the temp data from last year.

Originally posted 8-16-2010.
First 20 min. flush with Cascade run this morning (old pumps): Ambient temp 68° engine temp 174°. Cascade did something, The dumped water was cappuccino brown.
Second 20 min rinse cycle with only water: Ambeint temp 78° engine temp 185°.
The dump water was the same color but you could see through it.
Removed pumps and radiator. Reversed flushed radiator. Saw clear water and good flow.
Checked the oil passages(were good) and installed pumps and radiator.
Filled the system with water only and went on the 20 min. cycle. Ambient 80° engine temp 165°
I am using a Craftsman DVM with a thermocouple input to take the engine temp readings. I take the reading at the hose connection on the heads. Both sides are within 5°.

As you can see Skip's pumps do make a sizable difference. I did see the temp climb when sitting at a couple of traffic lights. Nothing real bad just going outside the normal range on the Ford gauge. But today is a good 15+° cooler than the day it barfed. I think a shroud or an auxiliary electric fan may be a prudent addition to cover slow going on the really hot days.
Over the passed few weeks I have seen a number of 39 & 40 cars and 40 & 41 pickups. I have yet to see one with a shroud.
Did Ford offer one?

I'm letting it cool so I can change the water to the antifreeze, Water Weter, pump lube and Barrs concoction. I'll post those result later or maybe tomorrow. It's weird at 5 stores in town that I stopped at, no one at these places ever heard of Purple Ice. I was able to get Water Wetter at last place (Advance). I am going to wait until I get Purple Ice before making the concoction. It maybe a day or so.

Originlly posted 8-19-2010
Here are the temp readings with Skip's recommended mix. That is 2 gallons of Texaco antifreeze, 2 16 oz bottles of Purple Ice, 1 16 bottle of pump lube and corrosion inhibiter(I used a Solder Seal Product) and the Barrs stop leak.
Ambient temp 76° Coolant temp 160. This pretty much matches the straight water readings after the pumps were installed. So far so good.
 
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