Water pumps

TomC750

TomC750

Senior Member
I have resumed work on my 8RT for my 8NV8 tractor. Both water pumps need replacing. Is there any advantage in getting them rebuilt? Years ago I broke a pulley on one attempting to rebuild it. I was successful with the other. I then found another leaker with a perfect casting, sent it in as a core to a well known early Ford parts supplier. The pump I received back was junk, hardly any tube, most of it rusted away. I saved it, but it took a good bit of work. Maybe I am better off springing for new ones at around $80 per?
 
I went with new because as you found out you don't always get your originals back and what you do get back may not be as nice as what you had. Tim
 
I've used Skip Haney before, but recently picked up a set of Bob Drakes improved water pumps. Either way, I think you can't go wrong.
 
I'd pickup a new set from Drake. The later pumps had the improved vanes and ball bearings vs bronze sleeve bearings - so they are much better than the stock earlier pumps. I'd not waste my time and $$$ rebuilding the later pumps.
 
Texasroadkill said:
Any pictures of the tractor? I'm looking to build one in the near future. What kit if any did you use?
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I do not remember the name of the kit supplier, I built it around 20 years ago, and that supplier is no longer in business. however, there is another outfit producing a kit. And I do not remember that outfit's name either! A lot of help I am! An internet search should turn it up though. I may have a pic or two of the tractor. I will look.
 
Thanks for the replies, I have not checked with Drake yet, but I will. I have to order rings, bearings, valve seals etc. as well. I'd better get busy on a list. Spent today using a 7/16th tap chasing the head bolt threads.
 
TomC750 said:
Thanks for the replies, I have not checked with Drake yet, but I will. I have to order rings, bearings, valve seals etc. as well. I'd better get busy on a list. Spent today using a 7/16th tap chasing the head bolt threads.
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Arghhh.:eek: I wish you would have told us yesterday about your plans for today. Using a regular tap to chase flathead head bolt threads in the block is NOTrecommended. Those threads are cut to a different standard than normal so they will seal better (a bunch of the head bolt holes go right through to the water jacket). It's better to use a genuine Ford head bolt with 3 or 4 grooves filed in it as a chaser.


Not to worry, if you search the forum you will find sealers recommended that usually solve the leak problem resulting from this. If you still have leaks, there are several block sealing products that also work well.:)
 
tubman said:
Arghhh.:eek: I wish you would have told us yesterday about your plans for today. Using a regular tap to chase flathead head bolt threads in the block is NOTrecommended. Those threads are cut to a different standard than normal so they will seal better (a bunch of the head bolt holes go right through to the water jacket). It's better to use a genuine Ford head bolt with 3 or 4 grooves filed in it as a chaser.


Not to worry, if you search the forum you will find sealers recommended that usually solve the leak problem resulting from this. If you still have leaks, there are several block sealing products that also work well.:)
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Well, hard for me to believe I did any harm. The tap went in smooth and easy until it got past the reach of the bolt, then there was rust. I have forgotten my "class of threads", but I would expect the bolts to be in that class that allows for a close fit. We rebuilt a lot of flatheads back in the day, I never recall having a leak problem.
 
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Bored&Stroked said:
I'd pickup a new set from Drake. The later pumps had the improved vanes and ball bearings vs bronze sleeve bearings - so they are much better than the stock earlier pumps. I'd not waste my time and $$$ rebuilding the later pumps.
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I went to buy a pair,.....SOLD OUT:mad:
 
TomC750 said:
Well, hard for me to believe I did any harm. The tap went in smooth and easy until it got past the reach of the bolt, then there was rust. I have forgotten my "class of threads", but I would expect the bolts to be in that class that allows for a close fit. We rebuilt a lot of flatheads back in the day, I never recall having a leak problem.
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Tubman, threads are cut to a different standard than normal? What standard? They certainly are not AN or NS bolts as used in aircraft or they would be marked as such. I have been reviewing my Engineering Handbook and measuring major diameter, pitch diameter, etc. on the bolt threads as well as the block. This suggests that the threads in the block are class 2 or 3, and the easier to measure bolts are 3. In any case mine are well within spec. Interestingly, a new grade 8 nut is a looser fit on a headbolt than the headbolt in the block.

In another publication, "Best Shop Practices" it states "that when rebuilding assemblies it is important to use an appropriate tap to clean any debris out of the threads. Any other method may imbed particles in the threads and influence torque values." Case closed.
 
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I've used Daryl Fryer for rebuilt pumps. He advertises in the V-8 Times and he does a great job.
 
Speedway Motors has the modern style pumps in several styles in stock. I've used two sets of those recently and they are excellent.
 
Texasroadkill said:
Any pictures of the tractor? I'm looking to build one in the near future. What kit if any did you use?
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My kit was from Stauffer, no longer produced (I think) I did modify it some. The kit is currently produced by Awesome Henry. Any pics I have of my tractor are apparently on my other computer which is sick. I will come up with them eventually.

VanPelt has a neat video of a conversion on their website.
 
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