Water Pump Woes

I found it necessary to jack the front axle up on a '37 engine (in a '36 frame) when removing the water pumps. I used jack stands to keep the front end up and wheels off the floor. This is in addition to a 2x6 under the pan and some padding between the pan and the wood block.

BTW, had no problems removing the botls on the pumps but when removing studs from my engine, I used Liquid Wrench and tapped the studs lightly every day with a hammer after applying the solvent. Did this for about a week with no problems removing the studs. Might be good for the water pump bolt. Also, didn't need to remove the radiator or other parts on my car. May be different for your model.

Kerry
 
Update: My woes have been cut in half. One of the bolts came out. The other is another story. Tomorrow I am going to try a mm socket. The correct socket turns on the bolt. I thank I will drive a mm socket on to it -and then try to get the bolt out.
RT
 
I trick I learned from an old friend when you have a loose socket. Pound it on the bolt over a pop can or thin metal. Shims it up in a pinch and the impacts help loosen the bolt.

Funny thing is.............He originally did this when we were kids and he didn't have metric tools for his Honda.
 
Scotty's 52 F3 said:
I trick I learned from an old friend when you have a loose socket. Pound it on the bolt over a pop can or thin metal. Shims it up in a pinch and the impacts help loosen the bolt.

Funny thing is.............He originally did this when we were kids and he didn't have metric tools for his Honda.
Click to expand...

Love it!:D
 
Darrell S said:
I am the one who asked about this bolt a week or so ago as I broke one off. I had a friend with a welder come over and we tried welding the washer and nut as was suggested here. We were not successful as it continued to twist off so next I suppose we will drill and helicoil if necessary. The remaining part of the bolt is now broken off even with the gasket surface.
Click to expand...

What type of welder did he use? If he used a Mig, the settings need to be set for max heat at a slow feed rate to make that washer & nut trick work. In my case, I never could get the weld right to remove broken head studs using my Mig, but then I am not a professional welder. The best way to do the washer & nut trick is by using a Tig welder. Next best is probably a stick welder.
I would not fret too much about using a GOOD GRADE stainless steel bolt for that inner WP bolt, along with anti/never seize on the threads. Now for those who may happen to have one of those high priced aluminum FH blocks and/or aluminum bodied water pumps :), you will need to worry, or at least be concerned, about using stainless steel hardware.
 
I didn't intend to steal this thread but we used a flux core welder after trying a mig, neither was successful. This bolt has been heated, tapped with a hammer, soaked with PB Blaster and still won't move. I do have stainless bolts and anti seize compound to replace the old ones.
 
Not sure if it was mentioned yet but, let the bolt cool after welding the nut on.

Not trying to be a smart ***. I have seen guys start crankin on the nut while it was still red hot. Might get lucky that way but, usually just twists it off.
 
I bought this little set of special sockets, I think I got them from crafman, I think about 6 sockets in the set, the socket has spiral theeth, drive the socket on over the stripped head of the bolt and it will bite right into head, I've used them quite often. very handy. Walt
 
Today was not as good of a day as yesterday. I tried different sockets and metric as well, but I had no good luck today. I think I will continue to be patient and flood the bolt with penetrating oil and also giving it a good "whack" every so often.
Walt, If you can come up with enough information on your sockets, I would be interested in trying to find a set. Stay tuned for the next chapter!
Randy
 
Socket Extractors. The Blue is Irwin, Gray is Summit & Red is Craftsman.
 

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I ordered a set of Irwin extractors last night and look forward to trying them. Thanks for all of the help. I will be sure to let everyone know what happens. Be on the alert!
Thanks everyone and JSeery for the pictures.
Randy
 
ALERT - ALERT - ALERT. YES, I finally got the bolt to come out with one of the extractors. It was a slow process, and I am really happy to have that behind me. I really appreciate everyones advice. I am so relieved that I don't have to remove the motor.
Thanks
Randy
 
Now I,m wondering what is torque number for the water pumps? I really don,t want to think about twisting off a bolt. I plan to use stainless steel bolts. Thanks, Randy
 
Yea, Sorry to see Berry lose. I sorta dread watching Peyton tomorrow night.

I really did celebrate my victory earlier today.

Thanks Randy
 
Keep in mind that stainless steel bolts are normally weaker than say a grade 8 bolt and much easier to break and then more difficult to remove. So take in easy on the torque on stainless. Might want to consider how long the bolts survived the first time around and often with very little thought to proper maintenance to the cooling system. Say it was last rebuilt even in the 60s, that's 50+ years ago.
 
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General Bolt Torque chart based on bolt size. Notice the difference between Steel and Stainless. If your attempting to archive a specific clamping force it may be difficult without going to a larger size with a stainless bolt.
 

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