Water pump rebuilds

Cecil/WV said:
I have 330-160 stats and I haven't heard about not using stats if they don't restrict flow. I'm just reporting what works for me.
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He tries to bust Skips and Shewmans balls every time someone asks about their products. It's very apparent he don't know what he's talking about. G.M.
 
I too highly recommend Skip's pumps. I have been running without T-stats and with good airflow and a clean radiator, the temp gauge hangs around 160-165. I might also add that my 46 has been on several long road trips without any issues. Hopefully I haven't jinxed myself saying those kind words about the car! :eek:
 
G.M. said:
Why would he rebuild pumps that never properly cooled these engines the way they were?? He ONLY rebuilds them for better flow which improves the cooling. G.M.
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Sorry i thought that was an option... I still run my old pumps. I have only had coils done by skip and one distibutor.
 
I put Dennis Carpenter pumps on my '48 F-1. 276ci. flathead. I've run about 2,000 miles in hot and cool weather with no problems. The quality was very good.
 
I started a thread "Too Cool" a while back with the premise that my "Hot" (as in 284 ci / ScOT superchared) 59A with Skip's rebuilt truck pumps, a 6 blade truck fan, a super clean block and radiator with Bob's high flow stats ran too cool - could not get the temp past 120 !! In my case Bob sent me another set of Stats without the high flow extra holes and it runs at the correct 160 now!:D


HCO41 said:
Got the pumps for my 8ba back from Skip about a month ago. Instructions included with pumps said if thermostats are used the only ones acceptable were Bob Shewman's. I believe in using thermostats and have dutifly installed Bob's high flow 'stats. Engine is yet to be installed.
Howard
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Here's a system operating correctly ,it ran colder than what's needed .You then bring the temperature up with thermostats .

PeterC said:
I started a thread "Too Cool" a while back with the premise that my "Hot" (as in 284 ci / ScOT superchared) 59A with Skip's rebuilt truck pumps, a 6 blade truck fan, a super clean block and radiator with Bob's high flow stats ran too cool - could not get the temp past 120 !! In my case Bob sent me another set of Stats without the high flow extra holes and it runs at the correct 160 now!:D
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"Here's a system operating correctly ,it ran colder than what's needed .You then bring the temperature up with thermostats ."

Concur. That's where I am with 2 flatheads, one 8ba and one 59a, using off the shelf Speedway pumps.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
Another vote for pumps rebuilt by Skip Haney. I have non restrictive thermostats in my '35 sedan and with Skips pumps and his overflow check valve, no more puking coolant and overheating.
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JM 35 Sedan ...................
Be careful with those Check Valves. In theory, they are perfect. In real life, they will collect dirt, rust, or whatever else is in your motor block, that makes it's way to the valve and clogs it up. I know from experience.
It happened to me, on a slow moving parade on the beach, on a 95* sunny day. When the parade was over, I heard rumblings in my engine. Nothing was coming out of my check valve. After I got home, I took off the check valve and it was clogged shut and some of the internals were rusted away.
Anyone, who has these check valves, should take them off and clean them, ever so often.
I am 100% with you on Skip's water pumps !
MIKE :confused: (mikeburch)
 
Mike, that's a good point on the check valve. I had one that also clogged. I said something to George or Skip about that and if I remember correctly they said to send it back. I put another new one on and just for the heck of it, took the other one apart and found that crud had the valve stuck open. Cleaned it up and put it back together. I put it back on during our cross country trip last year and it works fine again.
 
It's hard to make a product that will over come neglect. These engines need to be flushed out once in a while. G.M.
 
GM .........................
Most of these engines still have foundry sand in them, from day one.
I don't believe it is possible to have perfectly clean internals, in the cooling system.
When my mishap happened, it was not too long since I had given my engine the vinegar treatment.
It doesn't take much to clog that small opening.
MIKE :confused: (mikeburch)
 
FL&WVMIKE said:
GM .........................
Most of these engines still have foundry sand in them, from day one.
I don't believe it is possible to have perfectly clean internals, in the cooling system.
When my mishap happened, it was not too long since I had given my engine the vinegar treatment.
It doesn't take much to clog that small opening.
MIKE :confused: (mikeburch)
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There are thousands of these valves in use with very few problems. It's very simple to rinse them out once a year for the benefit they produce. I believe the instructions tell you to rinse them. After all these years there is very little or no sand being circulated. Any sand lays down along the pan rail and stays there unless it is dug out. G.M.
 
If you want to know what is involved in rebuilding a water pump, check out this page, http://www.flatheadv8.org/Waterpump/pump.htm it is for the 8BA pumps, however I believe the 78- pumps are the same process. Keep in mind the rebuild kits from what I gather are exactly the same as what originally came in the pump, no new designed impellers or anything like that. As what was mentioned, Skip would be a great source to have this done if you want to keep the look original. Bob Drake actually has some decent pumps for a good price as well that use all the new stuff if original is not a concern.
 
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