Rick Leavitt
Member
I'm getting ready to change out my water pumps on my 41. Any secrets or tips I should know of before I start due to the motor mounts being on the pumps?
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
Water pump change out
- Thread starter Rick Leavitt
- Start date
19Fordy
Well-known member
Be sure to remove the bottom bolt that is inside the hose outlet.
Reinstall bolts using Anti-seize compound.
Place a 2x4 under the oil pan to support the engine and take weight off the pumps when you jack it up. Lift engine just enough to take engine weight off the pumps.
I use Permatex non-hardening gasket sealer when installing new pumps. Other folks may use soemthing else including just grease.
Don't overtighten any of the bolts when reinstalling,.
Reinstall bolts using Anti-seize compound.
Place a 2x4 under the oil pan to support the engine and take weight off the pumps when you jack it up. Lift engine just enough to take engine weight off the pumps.
I use Permatex non-hardening gasket sealer when installing new pumps. Other folks may use soemthing else including just grease.
Don't overtighten any of the bolts when reinstalling,.
Rick Leavitt
Member
You guys are awesome. Thank you!!!!
ford38v8
Well-known member
All of the above, but before you start, inspect the pump pulley for damage during assembly. No good to put on a pump only to discover too late that the pulley is crapola. Good time to flush out the block. Position the car on a slope and keep fresh running water to prevent rust stains on the driveway.
Grease only on the gaskets just to hold them in place during installation. No sealant required, and you don't want to make work for yourself the next time around scraping off old sealant. Use two temporary studs to locate and line up the pump for the other bolts, then replace those studs with bolts.
On cars having short difficult lower hoses, use the jack under the engine to raise/lower, easing the hose on as you go. Use silicone grease on the hoses, and don't forget the clamps, turn and flip them to the most accessible position for tightening.
The motor mount rubbers should be tight, but not bulging tight. Silicone on those rubbers will help protect them from engine heat and oil damage. Don't forget the cotter pins. Replace the fan belt if needed, and adjust to a 1" deflection.
Warm up the engine to soften the hoses, at which time you can adjust the clamps just a bit tighter.
Grease only on the gaskets just to hold them in place during installation. No sealant required, and you don't want to make work for yourself the next time around scraping off old sealant. Use two temporary studs to locate and line up the pump for the other bolts, then replace those studs with bolts.
On cars having short difficult lower hoses, use the jack under the engine to raise/lower, easing the hose on as you go. Use silicone grease on the hoses, and don't forget the clamps, turn and flip them to the most accessible position for tightening.
The motor mount rubbers should be tight, but not bulging tight. Silicone on those rubbers will help protect them from engine heat and oil damage. Don't forget the cotter pins. Replace the fan belt if needed, and adjust to a 1" deflection.
Warm up the engine to soften the hoses, at which time you can adjust the clamps just a bit tighter.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
And send your pumps to SKIP for the rebuild, rather than buy new pumps. Skip's pump rebuilds are better than what you can buy new! DD
SKIP's Contaact Info:
skip@fordsrus.com
George (Skip) Haney
29436 Taralane Drive
Punta Gorda, FL. 33982
941-637-6698
941-505-9085
.
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19Fordy
Well-known member
V8 makes a good point about Skip's pumps. They come with the new and improved spiral impellor , if desired. Also, I mix a drop or two of antiseize with the Permatex gasket sealer before applying.
Plus, Skips pumps come with gaskets. I also use two clamps on each end of my lower hoses and "dimple" the surface of the water oulets with a center punch for a better "bite" on the hoses. The 1953 Ford V8 Manual recommends 23-28 FT. LBS. torque for the water pump bolts. That's easily duplicated if you just tighten by hand with a socket as it's not super tight. I think I used a bronze bolt. Just look up the torque strength of the bolt you are using, if needed. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN .
Here's a handy chart
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque of Stainless Steel, Non ferrous Torque.pdf Divide Inch Pounds by 12 to get Foot Lbs.
My lower hoses are made from copper tubing (chrome plated) with a piece of straight rubber industrial grade hose between the pump and my copper tube metal hoses. Been that way for 20 years. Engine is an 8BA in a 40 Ford.
I realize you are using stock rubber lower hoses but, thought the extra info. might be helful as you could also "dimple" your pump outlets and make your own metal hoses.
Plus, Skips pumps come with gaskets. I also use two clamps on each end of my lower hoses and "dimple" the surface of the water oulets with a center punch for a better "bite" on the hoses. The 1953 Ford V8 Manual recommends 23-28 FT. LBS. torque for the water pump bolts. That's easily duplicated if you just tighten by hand with a socket as it's not super tight. I think I used a bronze bolt. Just look up the torque strength of the bolt you are using, if needed. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN .
Here's a handy chart
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque of Stainless Steel, Non ferrous Torque.pdf Divide Inch Pounds by 12 to get Foot Lbs.
My lower hoses are made from copper tubing (chrome plated) with a piece of straight rubber industrial grade hose between the pump and my copper tube metal hoses. Been that way for 20 years. Engine is an 8BA in a 40 Ford.
I realize you are using stock rubber lower hoses but, thought the extra info. might be helful as you could also "dimple" your pump outlets and make your own metal hoses.
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36coupe
Well-known member
I tried calling Skips work number and I get invalid number. I tried his home number and it rang through to an answering machine.
blucar
Well-known member
The above info about a 6 point socket is the most important part of the whole water pump replacement process.
Most people overlook the bolt inside of the hose attachment port. As a general rule the head of the bolt is badly de-graded from exposure to the cooling fluid.
An added trick I use on difficult bolts/screws is a heat gun on the head and/or nut.. A very clever body/fender mechanic taught me this trick about forty years ago.
I did not note any mention about running a wire up the gravity feed oil hole in the block to make sure it is clear. Looking at the back side of the water pump, the oil hole very evident.
One note about jacking the oil pan with a 2X4. Use a piece of 2X4 that is long enough to go across the width of the pan and not a short piece that rest only in the middle. Jack it up at the furthest most front part of the pan and not at the lower (larger) section where the sump is.
The furthest most front part of the pan is stronger than the large sump area. Plus, any denting of the pan in the sump area will impact the pickup lurking just underneath.
The furthest most front part of the pan is stronger than the large sump area. Plus, any denting of the pan in the sump area will impact the pickup lurking just underneath.
Rick Leavitt
Member
Thank you for all the info. Excellent stuff.