water pump bolt

BG you got lucky with the exhaust bolts, they are tough. Not my favorite. not sure why a lttile help with anti-seize is wrong?



I'm guessing head bolts are problematic due to torque stretching?
 
Hi Just a note about Stainless hardware. Marine grade 300 series is available at Fastenal and speciality dealers. Most hardware stores do not carry 'marine grade' I have examples of the pump bolt SS corroded down to 1/2" head size. Newc
 
I just had a related thought. If you did use a stainless bolt, and it broke for some reason, you probably couldn't use the old "weld a washer and a nut on it" removal technique to get it out unless you have special welding equipment, could you? I think this biases me against stainless bolts in general.
 
I just use a decent used bolt, with a smidge of copper grease. I do always use antifreeze though, for it's corrosion inhibitor qualities.

Mart.
 
40 years ago I found 2 bronze bolts and am still using them along with anti-seize. That hidden bolt just has to be snug.
 
Tinker said:
not sure why a lttile help with anti-seize is wrong?
Click to expand...

Not entirely sure what the wrong is referring to, but the thing to keep in mind is anti-seize (or any lubricant) changes the torque value you can apply to a fastener. What you are wanting is clamping force and the clamping force is greatly increased when you apply the dry torque value to a fastener that is lubricated. This can result in two outcomes, you end up applying excess clamping force or you can potently break the fastener. So, if you use some type of lubricant on a fastener you need to look up the wet vs dry torque values. Most torque values you see specified are the "dry" values.

In practice this gets a bit messy as we rarely are dealing with clean new fasteners, so it is just something you might want to keep in mind.
 
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I seriously doubt that any of the ones I've pulled had anti seize on them,
but yes, I always use it on reassembly for the next guy. Sometimes the next guy is me.


Tinker said:
BG you got lucky with the exhaust bolts, they are tough. Not my favorite. not sure why a lttile help with anti-seize is wrong?



I'm guessing head bolts are problematic due to torque stretching?
Click to expand...
 
Years ago, mechanics didn't use a torque wrench to install water pump bolts.
Tighten it firmly and then, move on.
I think we are "over torquing" this bolt question.
 
Agreed. I think someone here should do a test and omit these bolts altogether to see if anything bad happens. 8^) Jack E/NJ
 
Thanks for all the responses, great thread. Pumps from GOTHAM AUTO PARTS, Bedford Hills, NY (ronnieroadster recommended, James is great ! !) arrived today (ordered y/day and well packed ! !). As some of you noted, if the bolt comes out OK I may just re-use but I did pick up S/S today.
Paul in CT
 
I have never had a problem with the "hidden" bolt. As a body man dealing with rusty nuts and bolts, my sockets are all 6 point.
 
FWIW if you have a somewhat undersize 9/16" headed bolt, you might try a 14mm socket, it will be a tighter fit.

Mart.
 
I agree with JSeery and Mart. I always use a 6-point 14 mm socket because it fits more snuggly. I use grade 8 for the hidden bolt with anti-seize, never stainless.
 
I thought this was a interesting read (although it's from the internet and I posted it previously on this thread). It explains SS bolts are around a grade 2, as mentioned by Newc, marine are more like grade 5.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/materials.aspx

Although this was a conversion about bolts, I feel like I learned something more.




To add more to the conversion for conversion sake. Grade 8 hardness is not good for anything that has shear force on the bolts (like flywheels). Grade 8 is strong but very brittle.


I guess in conclusion, regular steel 5 grade bolts are good to go. Also I'm not worried about it that much in most situations that are not that dire using ss and some anti-seize regardless of the "factory" torques (outside head bolts).


Don't fool around with flywheels and bolts though! When in doubt give Roy a call.
http://fordscript.com/
 
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Update
A lot of not needed worry, bolt came right out !! Water jacket behind pump beautifully clean !!. Have to do the other side now. Got too cold this afternoon to continue.
Thanks again
Paul in CT
 
Allen heads wont strip or round off.
Even though its a low torque bolt, they can get cooked in there and cause problems getting them out.
Either way use new hardware.
 
Looks like I'm in the minority here on this one. On the only 59 series engine, that I've ever rebuilt, I had the hidden water pump bolt hex head snap off when attempting removal. So, when installing rebuilt pumps, I used SS bolts and anti-sieze on the internal/hidden bolt threads.
 
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