Water outlet torque

Kevin - Illinois

Kevin - Illinois

Senior Member
How may pounds should an A water outlet be torqued to when using the copper gasket? I am running a 5.5 head with the modern gasket for it.
 
others will say "Nay, nay !", but when I re-installed my stock, surfaced head in May 2010, I used new cast-iron neck with the 1/2 NPT pipe-tapping from Snyders, which I "surfaced" on some abrasive paper, backed with plate-glass, until I got a complete pattern ( flatness), then installed with a copper outlet gasket (steel McCord sandwich head gasket, NORS) both sprayed with P-Tex copper spray a gasket, then torqued all to 55 lbs, using the gradual 3-trip process, then a hot re-torque after a 1/2-hour run.

No cracks, no leaks. Car/ engine have gone about 7,000 miles since ( not easy ones either).

To be fair, the original Ford neck I removed had one ear broken-off and brazed back on in years past.

If the mating- flanges are flat, things should not break.

( Asbestos union-suit on.)

SC Frank
 
The last head that I installed, I torqued the upper water outlet to fifty five foot pounds on the final torque. I used the three step torque procedure that Frank mentions above. The manafacturer of the new head said to use no gasket. I applied a coat of clear RTV, gave it a few minutes to set before installing the water outlet and it has given no problems.
 
I was wondering about the gasket. It seems pretty thick. I did use the 3 step method in the correct order, but each time I got to the water neck I noticed the gasket squishing out a little like it's too thick. Let me ask you, if I decided to remove the gasket and go with the RTV do I need to come back off the rest of the head bolts (in order) before removing the neck nuts?
 
I'm not sure what you mean by modern gasket. I have used the Felpro copper clad water outlet gasket on my other model A's without the gasket squishing out at 55 ft. lbs. The BF head instructions recommended to use no gasket. I have broken several water outlets in the past If I used the paper gasket. When I would replace the broken ouitlet, I didn't loosen the other head nuts. Water outlets are famous for breaking when tightening. Its risky bidness . Like the rest of us , you are on your own. This has just been my experience. If its already on and not leaking I would probably let well enough alone.
 

Hi Kevin,


I torque the outlet nut's "Together"..Less chance of breaking it if you do it the way in the book..The water outlet with the full head torque wasn't one of Ford better Idea's,,,,


The copper gasket with the Crush ring's as Ford used originaly is fine or a thin "Paper bag" gasket or just some kind of sealer..I can imagine the outlet's snapping as guy's used the thick paper gasket latter on.. I did it,,,not knowing any better !!!!




Must of been a problem as Ford changed the whole set-up on the "B" engine... Something to think about ?. Why did Ford use a expensive "Copper" gasket from the factory Vs. a inexpensive paper type ???.


Greg out West
 
The copper gasket is correct, and will work fine with the same torque as the rest of the head, but if not a show car, a thin film of high temp silicone sealer on smooth flat surfaces works fine. I have done it that way for years, with no leak. The thick paper gasket is the one that breaks the ears off.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
The last head that I installed, I torqued the upper water outlet to fifty five foot pounds on the final torque. I used the three step torque procedure that Frank mentions above. The manafacturer of the new head said to use no gasket. I applied a coat of clear RTV, gave it a few minutes to set before installing the water outlet and it has given no problems.
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I have assembled two engine heads of my own and helped with at least a half dozen other engine assemblies and did it exactly as "Purty Swoft" explained above. I have had no problems nor have any of the others that I have helped. I know of two people that did use a gasket and had one of the ears brake. Obviously each person has to decide for themself about what method to use. Don/WI
 
My neck broke 3 days after putting thick gasket+&$%^# Sounded like a .22 rifle shot, big mess everywhere! Use ONLY paper thin gasket & RTV, or just RTV, Claude, (MY MAIN GURU SAID SO!) Bill W.
 
I use the thin paper gasket with a bit of 3M adhesive on one side.

As to relieveing and re-doing this, I don't see the need to release and retorque the entire head. I would simply undo the nuts holding the water outlet, do the method you want to do and then bring it up in three steps. On the last torquing, torque or check the surrounding nearest head bolts to be sure they're still up to snuff.

Your issue of breaking is with the outlet neck, NOT the head which is pretty resilient and can take some off center torque/force.

Joe K
 
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