Water Outlet Gasket?

IrishHills

IrishHills

Senior Member
Should I use one or just silicone and should it be torqued at 55 same as the other head nuts? I'm replacing the head gasket, water pump and outlet gaskets, any other tips? Thanks Ray

also my water pump studs off the head seem a little short when using the thick lock washers that were on it, did Henry originally use lock washers?

(I love this board :))
 
I normally only torque the two front head bolts at 50 lbs. Be sure the surface of the water outlet is flat to the head surface. I use a very thin gasket.

A friend of mine put his on and only used RTV, no gasket. Neither of us have had any leaks nor did we crack the water outlet.

Ron
 
Make sure the surfaces are clean and flat, and then just use silicone. Works fine for me! I have broken the necks using the gasket, and haven't broken one since!
 
I use the old paper match trick,on the edge where the bolt goes thru ,place one on each end havent cracked one yet. You know the old Book matches.
 
I really don't understand the match part. Do you just use it to keep the ends up some ? Do you remove it later ?

Maybe a picture is needed...

Marc
 
marc hildebrant said:
I really don't understand the match part. Do you just use it to keep the ends up some ? Do you remove it later ?

Maybe a picture is needed...

Marc
Click to expand...

Yes, the paper match gives more thickness to the outer adge, so the bolt is less likely to press it down enough to snap the ear off.
 
I just broke a Water Outlet with the thin paper gasket. Previously used just silicone without issue.

Has anyone used the copper Water Outlet gaskets?
 


Hi Guy's


Don't use a paper gasket.. The way Ford used the outlet as part of holding the head "Torque" wasn't the greatest Idea..


It must of been a problem as they (Ford) changed the whole pump with the outlet built into the pump .


I've broken a few outlet using the paper gasket not knowing any better..The paper gasket get wet and "Slip's"...Matche's ?? sometime they work ...But you have to think did Ford use matches on the assembly line ???



I use the "Copper" gasket as original that has "Crush ring's " built it in. Or just use "silicone" only...The gasket kit's should come with a metal shim type gasket..


Guy's not knowing just use what in the gasket "Kit".. (paper)So it's not your fault.. There should be a warning in the gasket kit's about the paper gasket...use at your own risk.


Greg out west
 
Ditto what Greg said. I use a copper gasket and haven't broken any outlets. I did break a couple outlets about 5 years ago when using a paper gasket.
 
Thanks guys for all the opinions, guess I try just silicone seeing I have only a paper gasket. I got everything cleaned up and washed down with lacuer thinner ready to go.

I just wish I could get this new throttle return spring on before installing the head. I just can't figure it out, Tom at Snyders says open the big loop up a little to get it hooked on the casting from the bell housing, but no way can I get it hooked and when you try to hook the bottom leg to the linkage to load the spring it just rotates the big loop off the casting. What am I missing?? :mad:
A9737-7292.jpg
 
How does the copper gasket avoid the "crack" problem with the Water Gasket ?

Was that the original method used on the engine when it was first made ?

Marc
 
marc hildebrant said:
How does the copper gasket avoid the "crack" problem with the Water Gasket ?

Was that the original method used on the engine when it was first made ?

Marc
Click to expand...

The paper gaskets soften when wet and squish out, mostly at the outer edge. The copper prevents the water from reaching the gasket core, preventing the softening. The original gasket was copper clad just like a head gasket which isolated the core from the water.
 
The accelerator arm spring is easy to put on if you remove the linkage from the flywheel housing first (have to take the floorboards out to accomplish easily). Once out, just push the spring to place and rotate the arm around to engage and "load" the spring, then install the linkage back in. I have had some repro. springs refuse to stay hooked on the arm end and come loose in use, may not be shaped right, very frustrating.
 
marc hildebrant said:
How does the copper gasket avoid the "crack" problem with the Water Gasket ?

Was that the original method used on the engine when it was first made ?

Marc
Click to expand...

The original carb to manifold and water outlet gaskets that I've seen have been made of brass, rather than copper, but the fit and function woud be exactly the same.
 
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