Water Outlet Cracking?

"B" Style outlet is on the water pump itself. Will not work with Model A head.

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These are the "C" variant pumps used in 33-34 where the radiator was "tilted back" over the "B" radiator - which was more like the Model A.

Makes for a very "short" pump. The B pumps are more reminiscent of the Model A pump in overall length, distance between the grease zerks.

Joe K
 
These are the "C" variant pumps used in 33-34 where the radiator was "tilted back" over the "B" radiator - which was more like the Model A.

Makes for a very "short" pump. The B pumps are more reminiscent of the Model A pump in overall length, distance between the grease zerks.

Joe K

Thanks for correcting me, only picture I had. But you should still get my drift, the outlet is on the pump, not the head.
 
One thing that has yet to be mentioned when using RTV instead of a gasket (I use RTV) is to use a file to flatten the mating surface on the head and the outlet gasket.
I use a wide flat file and run the file from all directions to level the surfaces. You don't need to get every imperfection out but do get the majority of them. The RTV will do the rest.
I like to use The Right Stuff sealant for mine.
A little bit is all it takes. Wait for the squeeze out to dry and then it comes off easy with a sharp blade or similar tool.

I've been doing this for years and have had zero problems.
 
This slide explains the cracking of the water outlet casting.
 

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Hello, I to have been a member of the brotherhood of broken water outlets , years ago would make a gasket from paper bag material and permatex it on both sides, this was before RTV was around. The RtV works well and tighten up each side a little at a time .
 
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