Water or Antifreeze ?

Dennis D,
The antifreeze debate aside, how many Model As have you looked at before deciding this one in the UP is the one for you? Your description of the condition of the body doesn't sound like an easy project. During my search, I found many reasonably priced As in the mid-west. I think for a few thousand more you could find a car that you wouldn't consider cutting the roof off! I found that I could buy an older restoration, still in good shape for about half what the owner spent on that restoration. I paid $7,500 for my 29 Tudor. Engine was rebuilt with insert bearings and a frame off restoration in the mid 90s. Seller estimated he had driven it about 500 miles since. He gave me over $16,000 in receipts for work done. As an added bonus, it was only about 3 1/2 hours from my home. They are out there if you look. I don't want to discourage you. If you have the time, skills and drive to do the work right, have at it! There are many on this site that have the time, money and experience to take on a major restoration and complete in a year. But on the other hand there are lots of projects sitting in garages for years, never finished. Just my opinion. That and 2 bucks will get you a cup of coffee.
 
goodcar said:
Didn't intend it as a technical answer, was just relating what my experience was and what some others have also experienced. Go ahead, use the antifreeze but just be aware of what could happen and monitor the oil and water levels. If the water level starts dropping and the oil level starts rising, then there's a serious problem.
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Yes, there is a serious problem ... with your engine.
But certainly not because of the antifreeze in the cooling system.
 
It has 6 windows, what is it called ?? Dennis D.

Dennis: When describing coupe bodies, the windshield is not counted. Therefore, you have what is called a "five window coupe". More often referred to as a "standard coupe".
 
goodcar said:
Something you need to be aware of if you are using antifreeze. Antifreeze will seek out tiny internal leaks in these old engines that water won't. Eventually it will find its way to your babbitt bearings and erode them. I don't know the scientific reason why this is, been told that antifreeze has less surface tension than water. I can, however speak from experience that my engine was okay with water, never needed to add any. When I tried using antifreeze, it started showing up in the oil. One day after a hard drive, there was a nice puddle of it on the garage floor. I run distilled water with a water pump lubricant added to the water. I understand the inconvenience of having to drain it in cold weather.
I live in a cold climate too.
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I've heard this many times on this forum. To me it just doesn't "hold water".
So if this is the case a person should be able to drill a small hole of just the right size in a container of coolant/water mix and separate all the coolant out leaving the container with just water in it.
Maybe I'm just over thinking it.
 
1crosscut said:
I've heard this many times on this forum. To me it just doesn't "hold water".
So if this is the case a person should be able to drill a small hole of just the right size in a container of coolant/water mix and separate all the coolant out leaving the container with just water in it.
Maybe I'm just over thinking it.
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Anti freeze has a lower viscosity than water. Making it easier to pump, by being thinner. This allows it to go into places water would not flow.

The higher the percentage of antifreeze to water, the lower the viscosity.

Think of different weights of motor oil, 20w or 50w. Enjoy.
 
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Here is one that a is headed in the right direction but note the amount of work, https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-coupster-on-32-rails-updated.335443/ The doors have been narrowed and the area where the front window meets the body has been blended in. One advantage to a coupster is that the doors are wider. I still wouldn't do it and recommend that you don't. Also note that the guys into original Model A's are not going to like it no matter how good it looks. The hot rod guys will like it is it is done right.

Charlie Stephens
 
Charlie -Thanks for the links. Those guys are a million times more talented than I'll ever be. Been looking into making a Speedster. Looks much easier. Lay down a piece of 3/4 plywood, grab a bench seat, fake gas tank and a wicker basket and call it good. LOL.
Waiting to hear from others on the water issue. Thanks again.
 
Thanks Mike- A standard Coupe is what I have I guess. The material is removed from the top and what is under it is a mess of wood framing and sheet medal sections. Maybe it has been modified. Does that sound like how a standard coupe was made versus a solid metal stamping ?
 
Dennis D 1929 said:
Thanks Mike- A standard Coupe is what I have I guess. The material is removed from the top and what is under it is a mess of wood framing and sheet medal sections. Maybe it has been modified. Does that sound like how a standard coupe was made versus a solid metal stamping ?
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Sounds like a Special Coupe ??
 
My car has a sealed cooling system. Pressurized. I use Evans Waterless Coolant. Boiling point is above 375 degrees. No rust, corrosion or pump cavitation. Reduces pressure in the system. It will not work in an unpressurized system.
 
Chris Haynes said:
My car has a sealed cooling system. Pressurized. I use Evans Waterless Coolant. Boiling point is above 375 degrees. No rust, corrosion or pump cavitation. Reduces pressure in the system. It will not work in an unpressurized system.
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375, or did you mean 275 degrees?
Either one is too high for an engine.
 
Dennis, the guys are correct. You are better off not changing the car. What you are talking about would create a 'Sport Coupe' at best. Beyond the door difference, the windshield set-up is as well.

You should look at 'Marco's Model 'A' Ford Barnyard' page (just google it). Marco gives step-by-step instructions (with pics) on how to replace the the top. I bought a kit from Snyder's and then followed Marco's instructions and the top came out 'PERFECT'. That was 25 years ago and still not a wrinkle or wave at all. Still as 'tight' as the day I finished the job.

I stated a while back that I only use water - That is in Tampa Florida! I went this way due to the water pump leakage (before I went to the leak-less pump. RUST is a problem. NEVER use tap water due to mineral deposits as others have stated - use distilled water. Even here when it looks like a Freeze is coming I drain the engine, BUT there is still the possibility of freezing pockets in the block.

Hope this helps.
 
I know that antifreeze does leak easier than plain water, and wonder if it wouldn't be smart as a preventative measure to put some bars leak tablets in the system before any leaks start. They won't hurt anything, and would stop any leaks that might start. I think it is Cadillac or maybe some other GM that uses it from the factory.
 
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