water in the oil

easy things first... 1) change oil and check head studs are correct tightness . 2) if water reappears in the fresh oil then head off and see if any cracks visible .... if it looks Ok on head and block then 3) new head gasket, reassemble, and monitor
 
I think checking the torque on the head nuts will tell you a lot. I recently purchased a 31 Victoria and after about 150 miles I found water in the oil. I checked the head nuts and they were way under the proper torque. You have nothing to loose but some oil to bring the nuts up to 55 ft-lbs. and refill the radiator with water and crankcase with oil. Recheck your torque values daily for about a week to be sure the head is fully seated. If you still get water in your oil, you have to remove the head and change the head gasket. Ed
 
Fhane said:
I am confused. How does water get in oil through the head gasket
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Puzzles me too. IMO, the probable way water got into the oil is via a crack in the usual place between the exhaust valve in #2 or #3 and the cylinder. The crack would have migrated down the bore, likely trough a valve guide and into the water jacket. If that is so, the block is scrap.
 
Is it water or coolant? Short run times will cause condensation in the oil pan. Over time it can amount to quite a bit.
 
Fhane said:
I am confused. How does water get in oil through the head gasket
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Same way as it would if head not sufficiently torqued, seepage along and into bore and seeping thro the rings... More likely to be apparent if car has been standing for a few days/weeks as if regularly run the water evaps when warm. As Ed in Maine says re-checking torque is important.
 
johnbuckley said:
Same way as it would if head not sufficiently torqued, seepage along and into bore and seeping thro the rings... More likely to be apparent if car has been standing for a few days/weeks as if regularly run the water evaps when warm. As Ed in Maine says re-checking torque is important.
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I once had a car with a small oil seepage along the head gasket on the drivers side. No water in the oil pan, though. Comes out the head gasket through the rings. Learned something new today. Thanks
 
In addition to torquing the head nuts, make sure you follow the correct tightening sequence. I did a carbon job on my Model T, new gasket, and followed what I thought was the proper sequence, only to have the water in the radiator end up in the oil. Found out about when I went to hand crank it and it wouldn't turn over because a cylinder was filled with water. Thank goodness I was running plain water at the time, or the bearings could have been ruined. I checked a better source for the tightening sequence on the next go 'round, and no problems since.
 
So what is the right tightening sequence? I used to have a nice little drawing with numbers on the head bolts but can't seem to find it, think it came from a Bratton's catalog. Sure want to thank everyone for their help. You sure are a nice group of folks, Bill
 
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