water in the crank case

T

tallman1213@aol.com

New member
After finding water in the crank case, I replaced the head gasket as the most likely problem. No luck. Water immediately reappeared. Rather than pull the head again, I'm wondering if there could be another source for water getting into the crank case? I don't hold out much hope, but thought I would ask the collective.
 
maybe a crack in the block.

i think you may have to pull the head back off and use a block off plate on the deck with a bit of pressure to check.
 
I would try a good block sealer that you add to the radiator.

You have nothing to lose at this point.

Good luck.
 
Check around the exhaust valve seats in the block. This is a common place for cracks to develop, especially if the engine had been hot at one time. Water will dribble through the crack into the nearest cylinder, and because there are gaps in the piston rings (staggered though they are supposed to be), water will pass through these gaps and drain into the crankcase. This happened to a Model B block I was using on a cross-country drive in the 1990's. White smoke was exiting the tailpipe after the car had sat overnight. This was the engine warming up and burning off the water that had accumulated in that cylinder. That told me there was a crack in the block somewhere, most likely in the valve area. Removing the head revealed a crack in cylinder #3's exhaust seat. A local auto machine shop recommended running Pioneer ceramic block sealer with water only to seal the crack. After doing this, draining the coolant and allowing the ceramic to cure in the open air (spark plugs and radiator cap removed) for 24 hours, the crack was plugged and held for a year or two afterwards until I pulled the engine for a more permanent repair. But as the old automotive repair saying goes, there's nothing as permanent as a temporary repair and nothing as temporary as a permanent repair. I probably could have just allowed the engine to be used with the ceramic sealer's "temporary" repair - but I didn't. Sadly, Pioneer doesn't make this excellent ceramic block sealer anymore. I have yet to find one as good. :(
Anyway, pull the cylinder head and look for a crack in a valve seat, more likely an exhaust seat. Or as "WHN" advises, you have nothing to lose trying a block sealer and may save yourself a ton of money and work if you can find a good ceramic block sealer. If a sealer doesn't work, you're no worse off than you are now and will have to pull the engine so that an automotive machine shop can repair the crack.
Marshall
 
Well said: "But as the old automotive repair saying goes, there's nothing as permanent as a temporary repair and nothing as temporary as a permanent repair".
 
I have heard and read of people having good success with K-Seal for smaller leaks. I also have heard the Sonoma A's is an active club with lots of talent, knowledge and connections. If you're not a member it could really help you out with finding a permanent solution.
 
There are many areas that hold old oil , use some cheap oil and change the oil a couple of times after you get the engine throughly warmed up !
 
if the block were rusted or cracked in the upper area of the side valve chamber the water would dump directly into the oil in the crank case.
maybe pull that side cover and take a quick look in there. before you pull the head again.
just thinking out loud.

ou
 
Guten Tag Tallman,


I had investigated this problem several times because there was water in the oil. And it turned out that there was a crack in the hull twice.
To check this, I removed the oil pan. Overnight did oil drip out and also a significant amount of water leaked onto the floor in one spot.

The two cracks were located at the rear of the valve chamber.
 
I have used an Fluorescent Engine UV Leak Detector in the past to find leaks in the past. This one is for cooling systems https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...5/375cs?q=Fluorescent+Engine+UV+Leak+Detector They also make one for oil or A/C systems.

In fact, my coolant still "glows" if you shine a blacklight on it... Makes it easy to see the level below the baffle.

584725
 
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I agree with WHN- nothing to lose at this point. some great products out there nowadays.


if it doesnt work, youve lost nothing but a few dollars. I have heard of engines going 20 yrs with certain sealers. of course, all depends how bad your block really is.
 
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