Water flow

M

mrbillcars

New member
I have been told that the new leak less water pumps are high volume.
Is a restrictor/thermostat necessary to reduce water flow?
Running a new Brassworks radiator and want to make sure it cools well.
 
you could go without a stat, but i always use them on mine and all the cars i work on..
others grind the impeller fins to slow the flow but i never needed to do that.
i think your main concern is keeping it up to operating temp with a stat and not the flow issue.
i drill a couple holes in the stat for immediate tiny flow. some stats come with 1 or 2 holes i like to have 3..
cars that run to cool the oil contaminates quickly and sludges the motor even with a modern detergent oil.

take a old piece of old lower hose, that fits inside the upper tightly and will hold the stat from climbing inside
 
Why do you all think modern cars run thermotats? Dog's LAFFIN' @ my SPELIN'
Bill W.
(Mitch, kin you hear the water flowing, NOW? How about a FLEA-FART?)
 
Thermostat Housing:
 

Attachments

  • Thermostat housing.jpg
    Thermostat housing.jpg
    13.3 KB · Views: 44
I have a thermostat in my 31 coupe and have no cooling issues UNLESS I run anything else but plain water. In an attempt to clean the rust out I added a can of radiator flush and followed the instructions. That resulted in immediate foaming and overflow at the radiator cap. I still ran the engine for a while at low speed to flush the system. I then drained the radiator and refilled it at least three times before the foaming/overflow would stop.
After I got the foaming to stop I added water pump lubricant. Once again I got the foaming/overflow. Repeated the clear water flush several times and then added anti-freeze ----same foaming/overflow problem.
Anybody have opinions (although I prefer facts) as to why I am having that problem?

Second question: Have any one of you successfully converted to a sealed system? I am running the Snyder's leak less water pump.
 
Where did you hear about leakless pumps being high volume? Is someone saying that the complete pump, pumps more water? What about the kits to rebuild a pump into a leakless unit? The impeller is the same as the "stock" configuration.
 
I hope nobody hijacks this thread to "The water flows through the radiator too fast to cool". I've never heard such rubbish as that before. It just aint so, so don't - please.
 
Synchro909 said:
I hope nobody hijacks this thread to "The water flows through the radiator too fast to cool". I've never heard such rubbish as that before. It just aint so, so don't - please.
Click to expand...


I think what we are talking about here is that the Ford radiator was designed to flow something like 36GPM. If you have a pump that delivers 45GPM then the water will "backup" in the upper tank and drain out the overflow. The thermostat will not allow the water to flow that fast to the upper tank and as such not out the overflow.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Where did you hear about leakless pumps being high volume? Is someone saying that the complete pump, pumps more water? What about the kits to rebuild a pump into a leakless unit? The impeller is the same as the "stock" configuration.
Click to expand...
Mike,
This site is a great facility for DISPELLING stupid MYTHS & HEARSAY! -----------BUT, Dogs:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: DO TALK!:D AND, Buster T. CRIED,:mad: when our can opener BROKE!
Bill W.
 
Mike and Henry, What I was trying to say was not that the pump should pump as much water as possible. Obviously, there is trouble ahead if it pumps more than the radiator can handle as you say. I was referring to the myth that if the water is flowing too fast through the rad, it doesn't get time to cool so slowing it down will improve cooling. The best way to straighten that out I think is to point out that if the water spends so little time in the radiator that it can't cool, then it doesn't spend enough time in the engine to get hot either.
 
Synchro909 said:
Mike and Henry, What I was trying to say was not that the pump should pump as much water as possible. Obviously, there is trouble ahead if it pumps more than the radiator can handle as you say. I was referring to the myth that if the water is flowing too fast through the rad, it doesn't get time to cool so slowing it down will improve cooling. The best way to straighten that out I think is to point out that if the water spends so little time in the radiator that it can't cool, then it doesn't spend enough time in the engine to get hot either.
Click to expand...

Exactly right! Yep, water "flowing too fast" means a bad (or junk from day one) radiator that can't handle the normal flow rate. There truly have been many poor replacement radiators sold over the decades.

As far as a new (original question) "high volume pump", that would be interesting to see. Some such claims are commonly backed up with "creative reasoning" which won't pass muster, and some with nothing but a descriptive title.
 
Mike V. Florida said:
Where did you hear about leakless pumps being high volume? Is someone saying that the complete pump, pumps more water? What about the kits to rebuild a pump into a leakless unit? The impeller is the same as the "stock" configuration.
Click to expand...

reed the instructions that come with the pump, I put in a stat , it solved the problem
 
mrbillcars said:
I have been told that the new leak less water pumps are high volume.
Is a restrictor/thermostat necessary to reduce water flow?
Running a new Brassworks radiator and want to make sure it cools well.
Click to expand...

If your radiator is not restricted, the higher flow will cool BETTER. If there is a restriction on the vacuum side of the pump, it will lower the pressure (vacuum is just negative pressure) which will lower your boiling point, which will cause flash steam and then water flowing out overflow tube. In your case, with a known good radiator, high flow is a good thing for cooling. If it runs too cold, then think about a thermostat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top