Walter won't start !

james hitchcock

james hitchcock

Well-known member
Are there any Ford Barn members here in Visalia that would be interested in trouble shooting my 31(Walter). New coil , new condenser. Got horn and lights. No spark at plugs. Church finally having a car show on the 23rd. And now Walter won't go. If anyone here in the area and would like to swing by for a look see please message me. Or call me on my cell. (559) 300-6819. Thanks.
 
Check points gap. Pay attention to too much gap not allowing the points to close and the coil to charge. Remember, unlike the old days, new does not necessarily mean good. Did you get a high quality condenser from a supplier like Bratton's? Any time someone has two quality levels, buy the best. Do you have the old coil and condenser and, assuming they worked, can you install them for a test? Are you sure there was not anything else that you did since it last ran?

Charlie Stephens
 
You have lights and horn but does she crank? Check ground at the battery. Do you have a good battery? Just my 2 cents worth.


Mike
 
Lights, horn work but do you have power to the coil. then power to the points. could be a BO ignition switch. Follow the ignition system thru.
 
Have you removed or refit the armored cable that screws in to the distributor? If it’s in too far, it will ground out. I have first hand knowledge of this situation....��
 
Use a voltmeter and troubleshoot the ignition system. One side of coil should be battery voltage, other side should ground intermittently as the engine is slowly rotated by the hand crank, with the ignition switch ON. Most likely is the points are not contacting well, put a voltmeter right onto the points and see if they are going to ground when they close.
 
I hate to say it but I could not get my A to start a day or two after I had run it for a bit. Got a new 40000 volt coil since the spark seemed weak one time, still no start. Pulled the filter from the gas tank and stuck a stick in and it came back dry. Poured some gas in and it ran like a top. Sometimes you overthink things.
 
Take the high tension lead out of the distributor and hold it close to the head while someone cranks the engine over with ignition turned on. If you have spark, move on to the plugs. Hold a screw driver, one end against the head, the other close to a plug lead and crank again. If you have spark, that is not your problem so start looking elsewhere. Take out a plug or two and dribble a few drops (about a thimble full) of fuel into the cylinder and try cranking again. You now have spark and fuel. You said you checked the timing so you should get a kick out of it. You did replace the rotor button, didn’t you? If get a kick, start looking at fuel supply.
Obviously if any of the tests for spark show there is none, look there as others have suggested.
It’s a process of elimination. Test the electrical things from the battery on in a logical sequence and eliminate things as you find them to be OK. Once you have eliminated spark as the issue, move on to fuel. Is it reaching the carby? Is the choke working? Like I said follow things through. The problem will show itself.
 
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bartmcneill said:
I hate to say it but I could not get my A to start a day or two after I had run it for a bit. Got a new 40000 volt coil since the spark seemed weak one time, still no start. Pulled the filter from the gas tank and stuck a stick in and it came back dry. Poured some gas in and it ran like a top. Sometimes you overthink things.
Click to expand...

Bart,

Or turn the fuel valve on, I've done that when I assumed it was on. Better yet, step on the starter and not on the foot rest like I did! Finally figured out that the foot rest wasn't moving. After a few minutes of watching me my wife said "You need a check list to start it, like a pilot!"

David Serrano
 
California Travieso said:
Bart,

Or turn the fuel valve on, I've done that when I assumed it was on. Better yet, step on the starter and not on the foot rest like I did! Finally figured out that the foot rest wasn't moving. After a few minutes of watching me my wife said "You need a check list to start it, like a pilot!"

David Serrano
Click to expand...
Been guilty of this myself a couple of times.:D Usually happens shortly after getting it out the 1st time in the spring.
 
Last week we drove "Annabelle", our 30 Tudor to church. We got ready to head home and folks were all looking as we hopped in and started her up. SWEET! Then the engine died???
Note to self: Guess you have to open that little valve under the dash every time... I could try blaming my wife because after all, the valve was on her side of the car.
Humble pie is best when is is eaten with laughter. Chap
 
If not weak battery or coil, jumper across start switch, may be bad contact. Also check wire connections at switch and coil for looseness. Also, coil should connect to generator side of ammeter (per FSB) - check ammeter connections as well, as it is in the path from the battery.

One more thing - check correct coil polarity with the lead pencil test.
 
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