Voltage regulator question

[mistamick]

I have a '36 pickup with a '53 flathead engine and a perplexing problem. When I purchased the truck, it had not been run for a while and needed many items replaced. One of the first things noticed was the fact that it was not charging the battery. I replaced the battery, battery cables and voltage regulator. The generator was putting out voltage and not replaced.
The system is a 6 volt negative ground but the voltage regulator I purchased was stamped as a 6 volt positive ground but I was assured by the parts dealer that it didn't make any difference and would be OK once it was polarized. Everything worked well for a time but in a few weeks, it ceased charging or would charge only when the engine was raced at high RPM's. I took it to a mechanic who adjusted the regulator and got it to charge properly.
It worked well for the 15 mile ride home but the next time it was started it reverted back to charging only when raced. The mechanic has suggested replacing the battery but it doesn't make sense to me, as the battery is only about a year old.
I have since replaced the voltage regulator with a new one of the same type but still no luck. At my wits end and frustrated as to why it charges for a time and then quits.
Does anyone know if using a positive ground regulator on a negative ground system could be the problem? Could the generator be at fault?
Any thoughts or suggestions are most welcomed.

 

[c-gor]

Did you polarize the system?

 

[Charlie ny]

Mistamick,
There was some discussion awhile back on the old Barn regarding
this situation.....My personal expirience is the VR's available now at NAPA etc and
most vintage parts houses have inferior cutout points which will in short order begin
sticking. These points open and close during the cycle and must be of the highest
quality. The last $30 VG I purchased at the Tractor store lasted about a week.
My current VR is 3 years old and still works 100%....it is a NORS vintage Borg Warner
VR purchased at a swap meet, the VR was still in the box.
I wish to emphasize this is my expirience and my recommendation.
Some but NOT all VR's can be + or - ground.
Charlie ny

 

[PeteVS]

Unless the truck was from General Motors, it would have had a POSITIVE ground electrical system. Only GM had negative ground with 6 volts (my understanding.) MOST other manufacturers switched over to NEGATIVE ground with the change to 12 volts. Anyway, you want to get a VOLT meter. A properly set up system should charge at about 7.2 volts (generator output terminal to ground) at say a fast idle without much of a load (lights, etc.) If it's not charging 7.2 volts, try putting a jumper wire from the output terminal to the field terminal. (ONE OF THE GURU'S OUT THERE CONFIRM THIS FOR ME. OK? THANKS!) With the field connected to the output terminal, it should charge a lot higher. If it doesn't, it's the generator. If it does, it's the regulator. Once you have it charging well, battery performance should show itself in cranking the engine to start. Once again, GM cars are different- with them, you ground the field terminal to bypass the regulator.

 

[jdl]

this is from a old Motors Manual. also if you can find a nos Delco # F601 regulator, this is a excelent reg. for 6 Volt Early Fords