1931 flamingo
Well-known member
People have been hitting the pullers with a hammer since the cars were new. Not going to hurt anything. JMO
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
Vintage Precision Hub Puller
- Thread starter connecticut mike
- Start date
Pete
BANNED
Pullers that pull on the studs are an EXTREMELY poor choice for the job.
An explanation should not be required.
When axles are lapped to the hubs as in vintage race cars, they are almost impossible to get off by simply applying force no matter what type or brand of puller is used, however they normally come off with no more that 75 lb of torque simply by heating the hub to about 300 degrees after torque is applied. This will not affect the heat treat in the hub or axle.
An explanation should not be required.
When axles are lapped to the hubs as in vintage race cars, they are almost impossible to get off by simply applying force no matter what type or brand of puller is used, however they normally come off with no more that 75 lb of torque simply by heating the hub to about 300 degrees after torque is applied. This will not affect the heat treat in the hub or axle.
700rpm
Well-known member
I torque those rear hub nuts to 100 fp.
Synchro909
Well-known member
I bought one of those recently based on what I had read here. It is useless. Neither port will accept the probe for the temperature gauge. The big one is who knows what size and the small one is too small for my gauge so I bought another with a 1/8NPT fitting. That fell through the hole. The fitting is sitting on a shelf and I can't see I'll ever be able to use it.
While trying to get something happening, I found that the American NPT threads are not used anywhere else so why supply them with American threads? That is about $170 wasted.
The set up is so wonderful, I have to go back to the thermostat in the hose.
Buy one of their hub pullers? Not bleedin likely!
tmiller6
Senior Member
I have a '41 Ford in addition to my Model As. I bought the Vintage Precision puller when I had to do a brake job on that car.
I am impressed with the pullers construction and will not hesitate to use it on my older cars. I also like the plastic telescope it comes shipped in. It's great for storing the puller on the shelf.
I am impressed with the pullers construction and will not hesitate to use it on my older cars. I also like the plastic telescope it comes shipped in. It's great for storing the puller on the shelf.
shew01
Well-known member
Hmmm.... I bought one a while back, and the temperature probe fits fine. I’m very happy with my unit. I don’t know why yours would be so different from mine.
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Synchro909
Well-known member
I don't know what gauge you are using but as I said, I tried two probes. One was too big, the other too small and it appears no adapters are available which would seem to me to be a sensible solution to the problem. The too big one was an APCO gauge, the too small was a Chinese electric unit.
Once bitten, twice shy!
Those things are too ugly for my tastes. You can buy reproduction outlet necks with a threads for a temp sender cast right into them. They look correct and function perfectly.
midgetracer
Well-known member
To answer the op's question, The Vintage precision puller is a fine unit that works great for me. Pricey, but worth it.
shew01
Well-known member
I bought a Stewart Warner temperature gauge from Speedway Motors. It’s a bit pricey, but it works great. No regrets.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stew...rature-Gauge-Mechanical-2-1-16-Inch,7150.html
Hmmm... Now that I think about it, I think I originally bought a cheap China-made temperature gauge that didn’t fit. However, like I said, the Stewart Warner gauge works great for me, and it looks period correct.
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steve hackel
Senior Member
I also bought one of the Vintage hub pullers and have used it on my A', my friends A' on more than one occasion, several spare rear ends , my 34 coupe, and also a 40 rear end. I have yet to encounter any problems removing the hubs, although some have been very tight and I also use a good quality 3/4" SK breaker bar and their sockets or an impact socket on the bar for greater leverage. I will add this one note for my disassembly procedure. Before installing the hub puller I use a sledge hammer on one side of the hub @ the taper, and a large ball peen hammer struck on the opposite side of the hub against the shanks stem. This additional effort does seem to relieve the grip of the most stubborn hubs - even ones that were rusted to the axle.
Yes it was expensive for a very specific tool that will only be used a few times, but
without it, or something at least equal to it in quality and performance, you could
be spending a lot more time removing the hubs than need be - hopefully successful.
Yes it was expensive for a very specific tool that will only be used a few times, but
without it, or something at least equal to it in quality and performance, you could
be spending a lot more time removing the hubs than need be - hopefully successful.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
While the Vintage Precision puller looks like a nice unit, it can only be used on one type of hub (per their website. The Mitchell puller can be used on both types of hubs. I have run into cars with both types of hubs. https://mitchelloverdrives.com/mitchell-hub-puller/ less expensive too.
shew01
Well-known member
john charlton
Well-known member
I have not seen this type of hub puller in the USA, swap meets etc etc . Someone has cut slots to use it on a bigger lug nut spacing . It seems to be forged steel . It has a heavy outer nut with a sliding inner nut . Wind the big one up hard and bop the inner . Works a treat even on a correctly fitted hub . I am aware that in extreme cases the hub flange could be distorted but up to now that has not happened . I sometimes use heat on the hub if I think I could cause that problem . It is made by HARTRO which think could be Danish It has a big brother for the AA truck .Maybe Brad in Germany could identify them.
John in lovely sunny weather Suffolk County England .
John in lovely sunny weather Suffolk County England .
updraught
Well-known member
https://modelastore.com/gauges?product_id=4877
The APCO gauge fits these housings which are said to be 1/2 inch.
https://www.oneillvintageford.co.uk/acatalog/Ford_Model_A_Water_Pipes.html
From the VP web site
"Typically, electric temperature gauges use 1/4" NPT senders and mechanical gauges use 1/2" NPT senders. The Vintage Precision Thermostat Housing has (1) 1/2" NPT port and (1) 1/4" NPT port. Because mechanical gauges that use the 1/2” NPT port have temp senders that occasionally run long, they can stick too far into the housing and interfere with the function of the thermostat. Available upon request, we can include a 1/2” NPT bushing ($5.00) that will offset your temp sender safely away from the thermostat."
Afordman31
Well-known member
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
katy
Well-known member
I'd suggest turning that axle nut over before applying pressure on it.
Attachments
This is the hub puller I used. Works like a charm.