Vintage Precision Hub Puller

C

connecticut mike

Member
I expect that this post might p-off some Barners because of the extensive discussion of the subject on this site but I am very reluctant to hammer on the rear axle or on a puller. It seems to me that there must be some impact (pun intended) on the differential components from hammering on the end of the axle.

I have been using the cup-type puller but not hammering on it) with no success on either rear hub. I planned to buy a Mitchell puller, but the instructions for that puller call for hammering on the tool. There is a puller made by Vintage Precision that they claim is an improvement on the KR Wilson design. Their instructions do not call for hammering on the tool. Has anyone tried this puller, or the Mitchell, with good results?

Frustrated Mike
 
Sorry I haven't tried that particular puller, but it's a good idea to use a quality tool, whenever possible. The problem seems to me, some guys don't get immediate results when hitting puller with a hammer, so they either get a "bigger hammer" or start swinging at the puller like Big Poppi hammering out a homer in Fenway Park. "HEAT" is the answer, right in the proper place and a firm tap should pop a stubborn hub loose.
 
I found this on eBay a while back. No hammering is required if you use a breaker bar.

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I am lucky enough to have two nearby friends to borrow a KRW style pulller from, but here is the tool I made from my brake adjusting board to keep the hub from spinning:

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Rear hub/axle is an interference fit, the hub cut angle is one degree different than the axle taper angle. This method of fastening parts done correctly can be very tight. A combination of tension and vibration is used to disassemble them, tension is the forcing screw applied load, and vibration is the impact applied load. Using just tension alone is is logical but not the best method, the combination of the two is best.. enough tension and a tap to vibrate it works, not enough tension and you have to increase the vibration.not good...take a load,knock it once,if it doesnt jump off increase the load..
 
BTW you can not go wrong with Vintage Precision ,high quality parts and tools made by model a people.. Their thermostat set up is the best one out there.
 

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MMMM So I had a tough time getting a rear drum off a year or so ago. It was 8pm and I was getting tired Used a breaker bar and a similar set up like the break board. Went to bed. Woke up the next morning and the drum all but fell off in the night. All by it's lonesome.
 
Good Morning...I agree with Jack Shaft...The Vintage Percision Thermostat set up is great and I have been using it for over a year and all is well. It even looks factory...just the way that it goes on and has openings for heat gage connection...Ernie in Arizona
 
I made a clam shell style for '40 hubs and it worked well on one side but not the other. I'm hoping I just had the most stuck taper ever.
 
One option is to back the axle hut off about a 1/2 turn, re-install the cotter pin and drive around the block.

Another style that works good:
 

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I have a hub puller sold by Snyder's, Part # A-1114-PS. It says it is for 1 1928 car,
I used it on my 1930 A and it worked perfectly. No hammering just turn a wrench,
used to pull hubs front and rear.
 
jayvee34 said:
I have a hub puller sold by Snyder's, Part # A-1114-PS. It says it is for 1 1928 car,
I used it on my 1930 A and it worked perfectly. No hammering just turn a wrench,
used to pull hubs front and rear.
Click to expand...

Depends on which rear hub you have. There are two different rear hubs. You need a different puller for each type. The Hub puller from Mitchell does both.

You need a puller for your front hubs??:confused:
 
The pullers IMO are the ones which pull at the hub and not the 5 stud bolts. The hub portion which contains the 5 wheel studs can be prone to distortion from severe pulling effort when trying to pull on a very stubborn and tight taper. The flaming wrench has always worked for stubborn dis- assembly efforts.
 
The Master Cylinder said:
Depends on which rear hub you have. There are two different rear hubs. You need a different puller for each type. The Hub puller from Mitchell does both.

You need a puller for your front hubs??:confused:
Click to expand...

I have cast iron hubs, The puller I mentioned pulled both front and rear hubs.

The front and rear were not really hard to pull, about a half turn with the wrench the rest
by turning the puller bolt by hand.
 
jayvee34 said:
I have cast iron hubs, The puller I mentioned pulled both front and rear hubs.

The front and rear were not really hard to pull, about a half turn with the wrench the rest
by turning the puller bolt by hand.
Click to expand...

The rear hub should be tight. If yours easy ti pull ,it is too loose and is unsafe. The front hub should come off by hand.

John
 
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