VIN number 1930-A

Bonded title. End of story. There are a number of states that do not issue a title to cars over a certain age. California DMV is fully aware of this. Read there regulations, one of there answers is to get a bonded title.

This same story gets blow out of proportion every time it comes up.

Bonded Title. That is what it’s for.
 
Why does he need a bonded title? The car is legally titled. Its a simple matter of making sure the vin off of the legal title is visible on the car so that he can transfer the title. If there is reason to believe it is a fraudulent title that is a different story.
 
eagle said:
Why does he need a bonded title? The car is legally titled. Its a simple matter of making sure the vin off of the legal title is visible on the car so that he can transfer the title. If there is reason to believe it is a fraudulent title that is a different story.
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It is my understanding that this car has no visible “Part Number”. There were no VIN’s at the time of our Model A’s.

A bonded title should allow them to register the car without taking the car apart to find a P/N that might or might not be there.
 
I hope You mean serial number. Model A cars had model numbers for the different body types overall but they had a lot of part numbers. States all universally call a motor vehicle ID number a VIN. Just because it was made in an era that didn't use that nomenclature doesn't mean they won't refer to it that way now.

I just wonder how the last owner got it registered. Most of the states back east are relatively picky about insuring a vehicles title document matches the cars ID number.

Added tags have to be recognized by at least one state in the US before they will be acceptable to any others. If a state allows for this, I would get the approval in writing and keep that document with the registration papers for the vehicle. That kind of stuff should be passed on to the next owner.
 
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not every state bonds a title and if they do, good luck selling the car before the bond runs out.


if youre keeping it, then doesnt matter.
 
ronn said:
not every state bonds a title and if they do, good luck selling the car before the bond runs out.


if youre keeping it, then doesnt matter.
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California bonds titles, there are also instructions as to how you sell a car with a bonded title before the three year term.

You have to check the regulations, bonded titles are there for a very good reason. Also, with the normal value of Model A’s, bonding should be very affordable.

It is cheaper than removing a body. For most cars with title or identification number potential problems. Bonding could be the best and easiest way to go. DMV still has to inspect car. Making sure that if paperwork says it’s a 1930 pick-up and the car presented for inspection is a 1931 Sport Coupe, they see a problem before bonding takes place. You will need to also have car apprised before bond can be issued.
 
Most of the folks at DMV or even the police are not familiar with these old cars and are programed to require a "VIN". I bet their database cannot even pull up these old numbers. Sometimes in our excitement to educate we say too much. I would use the current engine number on my paperwork as the VIN and show them where it is stamped on the block, zip my lip, smile and change the subject...
I had to have the State Police check off the numbers on my 52 F1. The ID plate is located on a tag riveted to the glove compartment door. A removable and easily swapped out door??? No problem, they signed off on it. Chap
 
California bonds titles, there are also instructions as to how you sell a car with a bonded title before the three year term.


you lose 50% or more of your buyers with a bonded title. I wouldnt buy one for obvious reasons.
 
ronn said:
California bonds titles, there are also instructions as to how you sell a car with a bonded title before the three year term.


you lose 50% or more of your buyers with a bonded title. I wouldnt buy one for obvious reasons.
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There is a really big misunderstanding of how bonded titles work.

After the required bonding time, 3 to 5 years, you can go to DMV and get a regular clear title. If you want to sell your car before the three to five year period is up. The buyer has to continue the bonding until that 3 to 5 year period has ended. Then they will get a clear regular title.

If anyone loses money? It’s not because of a bonded title. Bonding is a guarantee, using insurance, that the car has a clean title/value. This is why you need to have the car appraised before bond can be issued.

There are many reasons why a car would need to have a bonded title. Fast and easy to do.
 
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so most buyers have no problem buying a car with a bonded title?


try and sell one and when you let the buyer know- say goodbye.


that is my only point.
 
ronn said:
so most buyers have no problem buying a car with a bonded title?


try and sell one and when you let the buyer know- say goodbye.


that is my only point.
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I disagree with your concern. I do agree that some uninformed buyers might walk away but that would be because they really don’t understand what a bonded title is.

There is really no difference between a regular title and a bonded title except that the bonded title has “Bonded” printed on it.

The main reason people use bonded titles is because they have lost the original one. Whether for a car, truck, boat, airplane, or RV. If that happens, you need to get a bonded title.

If selling a car with a bonded title. You might have to offer the new owner that you will pay for the continuation of bond until the required time period is over. The buyer really can’t get hurt. If car is taken away, he gets the bond money. That’s what it’s for.
 
CHP needs to see two visible numbers to validate your Vin. You should be able to have the number from your frame stamped onto their Vin tag but they must physically see it. But as Charlie showed you it isn't a pretty piece and the thin aluminum tag is drilled and riveted onto your body in a visible location.
Suggest checking the vin with DMV to be sure it is clear........
 
CA Victoria said:
CHP needs to see two visible numbers to validate your Vin. You should be able to have the number from your frame stamped onto their Vin tag but they must physically see it. But as Charlie showed you it isn't a pretty piece and the thin aluminum tag is drilled and riveted onto your body in a visible location.
Suggest checking the vin with DMV to be sure it is clear........
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I think the CHP will use their own number when they do the stamping but it never hurts to ask.

Charlie Stephens
 
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