Bick in New Zealand
Well-known member
Spent some time yesterday with my panelbeater (Body man) checking progress, and answering questions he had. Pleased to report that we have made some progress in the last month, and the end is in sight.
Victoria progress.
- Thread starter Bick in New Zealand
- Start date
George Iowa
Senior Member
looking Good!
Dennis Pereira
Well-known member
Nice work Bick. Whats the color combo going to be? Wish I had a panel Beater.
Bick in New Zealand
Well-known member
Maroon / Black / Vermillion/ Black wheels.
Roadster62
Well-known member
Very nice! I miss my '32 Vicky project.
MBI Houston
Senior Member
Is a Panal Beater a real job title in New Zealand or is that just a slang name? Either way the car looks great.
Karl
Well-known member
Bick I had Josh (one of the Panel beaters) in to see me yesterday. He says that it is completely outside his comfort zone and they have spent a lot of time ringing around "old guys" to find out how to put it back together. His personal opinion was that it would look good with no fenders and a 2 inch chop!!!.
That's the worst think about owning a Model A -I just don't have the time (and sometimes the skills) to do everything myself but the "old guys" I trust to work on it aren't thick on the ground anymore
Looking good though ! Will you have it ready for Art Deco? Karl
That's the worst think about owning a Model A -I just don't have the time (and sometimes the skills) to do everything myself but the "old guys" I trust to work on it aren't thick on the ground anymore
Looking good though ! Will you have it ready for Art Deco? Karl
Craig Lewis
Well-known member
That looks very nice & pictures like this are an inspiration!
The Victoria has a certain grace about it...
The Victoria has a certain grace about it...
Bick in New Zealand
Well-known member
A panel beater is a real job, it is someone who fixes automotive panels ie beats panels. Here they are called panel shops not body shops.
Karl no chance for Art Deco, I want to do this one correctly and am now in no hurry.
Cheers
Karl no chance for Art Deco, I want to do this one correctly and am now in no hurry.
Cheers
Karl
Well-known member
Bick I'm sure it will turn out great ! The engine is B internals in an A block from what Graham Miller tells me. Having just found a cracked block on the Phaeton B motor my plan is to do the same and install the B crank ,pistons,cam etc out of it into an A block. In the meantime fortunately I restored an A motor a couple of years ago as a spare which I will install and run until I get around to redoing the B. Any dramas with doing it? Obviously the crank shaft needs to turned down.
We will be at Deco in the Phaeton although currently trying to convince my Father to take the Coupe as well ! Karl
We will be at Deco in the Phaeton although currently trying to convince my Father to take the Coupe as well ! Karl
Bick in New Zealand
Well-known member
My motor, is still sitting at Grahams, ask him to have a look next time you are near. Combination works well. Have got my entry in for Art Deco, looks like business as usual after the last few years of dramas!
Dick Carne
Senior Member
Karl --
Pardon my ignorance (once again), but isn't one of the major benefits of running a "B" engine the fact that it has a thicker crank? If so, what would be gained by turning it down to fit an "A" block?
Thanks --
Dick
Pardon my ignorance (once again), but isn't one of the major benefits of running a "B" engine the fact that it has a thicker crank? If so, what would be gained by turning it down to fit an "A" block?
Thanks --
Dick
Karl
Well-known member
Yeah that's what I thought but according to the engine rebuilder ,who is doing Bick and my motors and does most (if not all) of the vintage and veteran motors for this area , the B Block is inherently weaker ie more prone to crack than the the A block. He feels the advantages of the B are more compression and balanced crank plus better breathing rather than the thicker crank -I guess how often do you here of a Model A crank breaking (compared with the T's that did it all the time )I guess the other advantage of putting the B internals in the A is you get a stock appearence (assuming you use the aftermarket hi performance head with the A water pump-rather than the B head) with the increased performance
In my case finding a good B block would be the issue. Unless Bick has one floating around ????-Karl
In my case finding a good B block would be the issue. Unless Bick has one floating around ????-Karl
Brian SATX
Well-known member
I am sure Tom Endy would like to have some of those pictures and the update for the Bustle.
quickchange
Well-known member
Karl i have two spare B blocks here , one is a complete engine, been rested for 40 years, still turns over, attempted to run it last tec night with some joy, Ran but noisy bottom end we think. Go good in VICKIES.
Dick Carne
Senior Member
Karl -
I agree that the "B" block is prone to crack between the # 2 and #3 cylinders (moreso than the "A:" block), but if the main difference to be gained is a balanced crank, then why not add counter-weights to an "A" crank. Admittedly the rods would not be as thick, but I'm not aware that these were a weak point with either of the two blocks. As for the cam, I would think that a "B" grind on an "A" cam might produce similar results. Again, perhaps my ignorance is coming through once more, I'm just interested in learning whatever I can on this subject. Thanks --
Dick
I agree that the "B" block is prone to crack between the # 2 and #3 cylinders (moreso than the "A:" block), but if the main difference to be gained is a balanced crank, then why not add counter-weights to an "A" crank. Admittedly the rods would not be as thick, but I'm not aware that these were a weak point with either of the two blocks. As for the cam, I would think that a "B" grind on an "A" cam might produce similar results. Again, perhaps my ignorance is coming through once more, I'm just interested in learning whatever I can on this subject. Thanks --
Dick