Vibration removal tips and tricks. Have any?

I have a 6:1 head in mine and have gotten comments on how smooth it is. I think it could be better but I haven't been around Model A's to know that well. Wish I had known then what I know now however. At least checked the rods and piston weights when I did an inframe overhaul.
 
Engine is back in the car. Just a few more hours and she'll be drivable again. New Mitchell syncro ready to try out too. My old transmission has some pretty worn bearings. I bet I can klunk the input shaft up and down a 1/4 inch. I wonder how that plays in to the whole vibration story. I hand packed the clamshell with cornhead grease, it took an entire cartridge to fill it. I had cornhead grease in it, it looks to have done a good job of lubricating things and didn't leak out.
 

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Art Newland said:
Engine is back in the car. Just a few more hours and she'll be drivable again. New Mitchell syncro ready to try out too. My old transmission has some pretty worn bearings. I bet I can klunk the input shaft up and down a 1/4 inch. I wonder how that plays in to the whole vibration story. I hand packed the clamshell with cornhead grease, it took an entire cartridge to fill it. I had cornhead grease in it, it looks to have done a good job of lubricating things and didn't leak out.
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11 days till the A-secent...I think you're making good time:)
 
Back on the road again! And I'm happy with the results so far. Vibrations are much less.:)
The Mitchell syncro is interesting, I bought the 15% over 1st and 2nd version and it seems well suited to the car.
 

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Fitting one of those Mitchell synchro gearboxes is about the best single thing I have done to a Model A. They cost a few $ but heck, I can't take any of those with me.
 
The syncros sure make getting up to speed a lot easier.:) The higher ratio 1st and 2nd is really nice, the jump from 2nd to 3rd isn't such a giant leap. FAMs are installed and these are much nicer units than the old aluminum ones that were on it. Haven't played with the tension on the rubber doughnuts yet, might get it even better yet. For sure installing the engine is easier with the FAMs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzsXr71L880
 
Made up my tail-pipe mount today. I took a cheap fits-all tail-pipe hanger from O'rielly's and removed the clamp part. I turned a stock tail-pipe clamp sideways and bolted it to the rubber insulator of the hanger.
 

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So far what's working best for me is both side mounts tightened equally, just tight enough to keep the top disk from being able to be turned by hand. I had read a post by Bill W. that loosening the front mount could help reduce some vibration, so I replaced the stock nut/cotter with a ny-lock nut for better adjust-ability. This made a considerable improvement! It is now tightened just enough to not be able to turn the spring with my fingers.
 
Art Newland said:
Made up my tail-pipe mount today. I took a cheap fits-all tail-pipe hanger from O'rielly's and removed the clamp part. I turned a stock tail-pipe clamp sideways and bolted it to the rubber insulator of the hanger.
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Having used those exact hangers on modern cars, you will be fixing it in less than a year. Bring a spool of bailing wire with you when it falls off!

2 of 2 things will happen: the rivets will pull out of the old rubber tire piece as it will deteriorate fast, but before that happens the pipe strap will break.

Dont mean to sound all negative nancy but those hangers are OK for a bandaid road side fix but you will be constantly messing with it soon. just a warning from multiple experiences haha.
 
I'll be sure to keep an eye on it. This is the same hanger I was using before, just in a different configuration. Had about 2500 miles of use on it. Didn't really notice any deterioration at this time. Worse case scenario is removing a couple bolts and putting the clamp back in it's stock location.
 
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