Vibration removal tips and tricks. Have any?

Art Newland

Art Newland

Well-known member
I have my engine pulled to install my new Mitchell transmission, and while I'm at it I want to do what ever I can to reduce the vibration levels. The vibration really ruins the driving experience for me, so I want to do all I can while it's apart. I had Float-a-motor mounts before installing my new-to-me engine earlier this year. They were aluminum and one was cracked so I decided to install stock mounts and new rubbers. I've heard/read all the cons, and new FAMs are going back in. I have an idea for an insulated tail-pipe hanger that I will share if it works out OK. The trans is just about ready to come out and I'm anxious to see the condition of the u-joint.
 

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Hey Art, if you were pulling the engine to get at the trans, why didn't you pull them all together? Would have been a lot easier with only needing to open the clam shell to pull it.

I do hope you reassemble it all to reinstall it, putting the trans back on while out of the car is way easier than trying to align everything while in the car.
 
My plan is to install as an assembly. I probably should have pulled it assembled as well, I could have let the hoist do all the lifting!
 
Yes, oh, and I think going back to the FAM is the best bet, just be sure to get the new cast iron style instead of the aluminum.
 
is that the aluminum fan on there? if not that can be out of balance and vibrate as well...

How tight and whos rubber set did you use for the factory rear motor mounts? sposta put them in so you can just barely get the cotter thru.
 
Be sure not to tighten down too much on the FAM rubber bisquits, or on the front motor mount.

Be sure to use the correct shims in the two bolts that connect the throttle assembly and flywheel housing. The shim should be the thickness of the compressed gasket that's present at the other bolt holes.

Here's a picture of the muffler hanger that I crafted from a generic RUBBER hanger I got at an auto parts store.
 

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SeaSlugs said:
is that the aluminum fan on there? if not that can be out of balance and vibrate as well...

How tight and whos rubber set did you use for the factory rear motor mounts? sposta put them in so you can just barely get the cotter thru.
Click to expand...

Yes, newer aluminum fan blade.

New mount rubbers were from Bratton's, tightened just enough to get a cotter in. After removal, the rubbers all looked like they seated well, nothing smashed or mis-aligned.
 
steve s said:
Be sure not to tighten down too much on the FAM rubber bisquits, or on the front motor mount.

Be sure to use the correct shims in the two bolts that connect the throttle assembly and flywheel housing. The shim should be the thickness of the compressed gasket that's present at the other bolt holes.

Here's a picture of the muffler hanger that I crafted from a generic RUBBER hanger I got at an auto parts store.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the picture Steve.

I did dial indicate the flywheel housing when I installed then engine.
 
The ****** is out. The drive shaft seems snug in it's bearing. The u-joint looks to be in good condition. The large washer that is supposed to be on the u-joint retaining bolt is missing. Pictures show the u-joint and the new one that I purchased a while back as NOS. Obviously of a different configuration.
 

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Flywheel aligned to the housing with a dial indicator. I think a search will bring up particulars on doing it. Also a newer fan does not necessarily mean it is balanced. Depending on what work you contemplate for the engine you may want to have the rods and pistons balanced at this time.
 
I realize that things could be done to the engine to help with vibration, and it may be that this engine has some issues that way. The engine starts and runs great. Pulls like a mule. It has ended up with a Brumfield HC head, compression in the low 90's, and I'm thinking that this might be adding to the vibs while pulling hard. I do plan a rebuild of the original engine, I don't mind spending the money, but with all the threads about rebuilds-gone-bad, it's very scary.
 
Just my experience but I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt unit and that helped it run smoother.

I finally tested my coil for the "hot blue spark" and what I got was an anemic pale yellow spark....replaced the coil and now the spark is hot and blue...this too made it run better...

FAM's front and rear and after much fiddling and adjusting they too helped.

Let us know if the flywheel/pressure plate balancing helps...I'm gonna do that if I ever have another reason to pull the engine...

I also replace the rear exhaust pipe mount with an insulated one...exhaust rattle is gone...
 
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