Very tight engine

JRShaw

JRShaw

Senior Member
Today I thought that it would be a good day to start my roadster engine. In the past, it could easily be turned over with a crank. When the roadster was returned to me after 18-months in a leaky wet barn, it was absolutely impossible to crank, even with my 200# on the crank! The engine will turn over with a fully charged battery, but it is too slow for starting. ANY thoughts, suggestions, ideas etc.? All will be appreciated. Thank You in Advance.
 
Remove the spark plugs and check out the cylinders. If you don't see any hay or other detritus try 2oz of Marvel Mystery Oil per cylinder.

My own experience along these lines relates to a Gordon Smith Compressor. The device had been operable when it was put under a barn to store it so I could build my house.

Six months later I recover the compressor, tow it home, and try to turn it over for a start - STUCK.

Removing the head I found that as the engine had stopped the No. 4 cylinder exhaust valve was open, and mice had crawled up the exhaust pipe (it had a muffler), squeezed past the open valve - and set up shop for the winter.

Mouse urine is highly corrosive.

The engine already had some "air miles" on it (compressor) so I elected to have the block bored - and oh, while we're at it clean up the crank and rods and re-set the engine.

If on opening your plugs you find ANY vegetable matter, your outlook and wallet might be the same.

Joe k
 
Battery posts and terminals clean shiny and bright ?! Ground strap to the chassis clean shiny and bright , starter connection clean shiny and bright , starter switch inside clean shiny and bright . The connections need to be clean on the insides not just outside ! MMO down the spark plug holes may free up the tightness !
 
Do what Joe said, Post #2. A bore scope will help to determine if there is rust on the cylinder walls. You can also pour a quart of oil down the distributor hole to help lubricate the bearings. Take he distributor out first. You will not need to retime it if you put the distributor back in the same place. It should only go in one way unless the tangs or slots are well worn.
 
Oil up the cylinders, then tow it slowly while in 2nd gear with the plugs out, the gas turned off and the ignition off for a short distance to free her up. (Have someone in the "A" to work the steering and brakes. Duh.)
 
mice love barns
i have seen where mice have packed seeds up through the exhaust system, in through the open valve and into the cylinders.

towing it may not be the best idea if there is **** in the cylinders could bend a rod.

nkaminar has a good idea to check with the scope.

just a thought
 
I had a similar problem years ago with a rebuilt engine that had sat too long without movement. As previously suggested, lubricate the cylinders, and tow the car very slowly. I think I had my transmission in third gear, not second. I used temporarily a 12 volt battery from my modern car. I used my tractor in low range moving very slowly. Then, I very slowly partially let out the clutch pedal (you can hear the clutch start to rub on the pressure plate) and then hit the starter. The jolt from the starter and the turning clutch started spinning the engine. I had the hood off so I could watch the fan. I then towed the car about a mile. In my case, I had to use this method several times before one day, it the car started normally. Good luck, Ed
 
Joe K said:
Remove the spark plugs and check out the cylinders. If you don't see any hay or other detritus try 2oz of Marvel Mystery Oil per cylinder.

My own experience along these lines relates to a Gordon Smith Compressor. The device had been operable when it was put under a barn to store it so I could build my house.

Six months later I recover the compressor, tow it home, and try to turn it over for a start - STUCK.

Removing the head I found that as the engine had stopped the No. 4 cylinder exhaust valve was open, and mice had crawled up the exhaust pipe (it had a muffler), squeezed past the open valve - and set up shop for the winter.

Mouse urine is highly corrosive.

The engine already had some "air miles" on it (compressor) so I elected to have the block bored - and oh, while we're at it clean up the crank and rods and re-set the engine.

If on opening your plugs you find ANY vegetable matter, your outlook and wallet might be the same.

Joe k
Click to expand...
Joe - Thank You for the note. I should have said that before the roadster was sent for painting and assembly the engine could easily be cranked over (with no spark plugs). When it finally got returned to me it is impossible to crank over, spark plugs or none. It is now sitting with a good dose of MMO in each cylinder. We shall see!!
 
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