Valves
- Thread starter Granny
- Start date
Offy 220
Junior Member
I had this problem with my 59a block with deep intake valve seats with the stock size 1.5". I contacted Old Ron for advice and he suggested I regrind the seats for the larger 1.6" Manley valves. I used my Neway hand valve seat grinding setup and the results worked out great! As Old Ron suggested the longer valve stems work out perfectly with the high lift cams - I have an original Bill Jenks 3/8's Potvin [.375 lift] in my 59a. Great advice from 40 Deluxe and Old Ron!
Craig CT
Senior Member
Hi Ron; I hope you're well. Are all SBC valves good or is there a year range? Thanks, Craig.
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Craig
ot sure when the 1.6 valve was introduced , the 1.5 cost $2.95 and the 1.6 was 5.95. So 16 valves was quite expensive when running a hi lift cam. I didn't see the reason to run them in the exhaust unless the deats were bad. Replacing the seats wasalso very expensive to do it right.
You have to understand, money was in short supply raising 4 kids, and the price of adj lifters went up to over 20 bucks a set. so I build allot of engines for other people. My favorit engine back then was the Olds 370ci engine, another reason you couldn't use the stock trans and rear end. The La Sall trans got scarce, but the Caddy boxes were only 20/30 bucks, but you had to buy a Hurst shifter anothe 50 bucks shot. So you can see why racing was expensive.
Then waz the good ol days
Gramps
There is quite a range of Chevy valves. From budget replacement to Serve Duty. The price goes up accordingly. I'd try to find ones with undercut stems under the head to give you maximum flow.
If you really want to get slick, have someone taper and install bronze inserts into the valve guides to also improve flow into the port. Inserts just improve wear and help to prevent sticking valves.
If you really want to get slick, have someone taper and install bronze inserts into the valve guides to also improve flow into the port. Inserts just improve wear and help to prevent sticking valves.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Just so everybody thinks it all the way through. When you lengthen the stem, you also lengthen the installed length/height of the valve spring. So, make sure you have your valve springs tested and know at what installed height they need to be to deliver the correct LBs on the seat.
I frequently use Isky 185G springs on my high-performance builds and I take a steel Chevy valve retainer and cut it back for the 185G springs. The retainer is much thicker than the stock 49-53 ones, so it helps take up the longer spring distance of the 1.6 valves.
Also, when buying new 49-53 style valve guides, it is best to have the exhaust guides that do NOT have the intake seal groove cut into them. Why? Well, the more surface area on the valve guide OD, the better heat transfer from the exhaust valve into the block - this is important for valve cooling (exhaust side). You'll see a 'solid' type exhaust guide below.
I also make aluminum 'spacers' to put against the guide to set the final installed height. I don't like stacking up 3 or 4 .060 spring shims (I'm a bit picky):
I frequently use Isky 185G springs on my high-performance builds and I take a steel Chevy valve retainer and cut it back for the 185G springs. The retainer is much thicker than the stock 49-53 ones, so it helps take up the longer spring distance of the 1.6 valves.
Also, when buying new 49-53 style valve guides, it is best to have the exhaust guides that do NOT have the intake seal groove cut into them. Why? Well, the more surface area on the valve guide OD, the better heat transfer from the exhaust valve into the block - this is important for valve cooling (exhaust side). You'll see a 'solid' type exhaust guide below.
I also make aluminum 'spacers' to put against the guide to set the final installed height. I don't like stacking up 3 or 4 .060 spring shims (I'm a bit picky):