I just installed new valves in the engine I'm working on I set the clearances to .012 intake and .014 exhaust as best that I could. Some may be a touch loose. How critical are these settings.
ive got one out to .20 that im going to correct while doing the rebuild. but it seemed no louder than the others. a loose valve might make some noise but it wont keep it from running.
edit: i was thinking .020 not .20 and after reading later comments saying it is supposed to be around that it must have been .024 or .026 I just know it was above the others by a bit.
I've read that Henry said that with a little noise it will keep its poise. I think the setting for model B engines was .018 intake and .022 exhaust . More gap gives more time on the seat for more cooling of the valves . Less gap may give a very small amount of lift but valves may burn easier . Years ago Snyders recommended a setting of .016 for both intake and exhaust. I have used the .016 setting for many years with good results . My super street Winfield 3/4 race regrind cams came with a reccomended setting of .016 and my valves don't click on any of my engines .
This discussion raises the question: should valve lash on the Model A/B be set warm or cold?
I have heard that the stainless steel valves now available from the vendors ten to expand more when hot than is the case for the older hardened steel or stellite valves.
Model A OEM cams were designed with the 3 curve method.
THEY HAVE NO CLEARANCE RAMPS.
If you want the maximum life and performance from the cam,
you should stick to the exact clearance specs for the cam.
They had adjustable lifters when the model A was designed but one reason Ford used non-adjustables besides being cheaper was to keep people from diddling with them.