Valve tappets

archauto

archauto

Junior Member
I just received the tappet holders to adjust the valves only to find that my adjustable tappers have a 1/2" adjusting bolt ,not 7/16". All references refer to the 7/16". This is a 1953 (so I've been told, there are no serial numbers on block) V-8 w/ RT head and has been rebuilt w/ adjustable tappets.
 
Me too, but they work just fine. The trick here is not to have the adjusting screw out too far. If using a small base circle cam, use a longer valve.
 
Thanks Guys!
I thought for a split second that I had something unusual...but naw just a variation of the theme. When i first got the car is sounded like a singer sewing machine with a bent needle. After I started re-gapping the springs they were at the max. of .18-.19 for exhaust and .15-.16 for intake. They are now down to a comfortable .14 and .12
 
Just looked at my last post and realized .14 and .12 would be big enough to drive a small Buick through, should read .014 and .012...just in case a uninformed person (like me) gets on here and reads the wrong thing.

Another question is when adjusting the valves, various post have said once the valve is closed you have to turn the crank 180 degrees to have it on the heel of the cam, which is curious because it is on the heel of the cam once it is down and then there are all sorts of gyrations to adjust the next valve. Correct me if I'm wrong but couldn't one just march along doing one side of the valve train valve by valve as they are on the heel of the cam rather than switching around to the next valve in the firing order or some such sequence. Once the valve is down isn't the heel of the cam the same the same diameter until the lobe of the cam starts lifting the valve again? The uninformed people want to know.
Thanks
 
An easy and SAFE way to do it is put a dab of paint on the crank pulley,turn the engine until the valve you want to adjust is fully open,note the position of the crank pulley,turn the engine ONE revolution,adjust the valve,
This takes a bit longer but is a sure way to be sure the lifter is on the base of the cam.
Lawrie
 
Here's a procedure from an old manual, haven't done it this way, I degree the cam.
In the following, X = exhaust, and I = inlet.
With valves 4 X and 1 N open. Adjust 3X, 8N, 6N, 7X, 3N and 2X.
With 3X and 8N open, adjust 1X, 7N, 5X, 2N, 4X and 1N.
With 1X and 7N open, adjust 8X, 5N, 6X and 4N.
This could speed up the job, but as I said, haven't actually done it this way. This is for a stock engine.
worth a go?
Martin.
 
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