Valve stem length

my2nd40

my2nd40

Senior Member
For you guys who use non adjustable lifters, what is your method to determine how much to grind off the valve stem to arrive at the correct valve lash. Pictures if you have them, measurement tools if you use them. TIA
 
There is a real cool tool, I don't have a picture.
With cam and lifters in place, valve seats cut,
You insert this tool into the place where the valve sits,
lock it and this transfers to the stem grind.
Some one will step in to clarify, I hope.

I would be doing it carefully and slowly, by trial.

Karl
 
My way sounds like it takes a while, but once you get into it, it really doesn't. Whatever valve I'm working on, I'll position it in place with the tappet on the heel of the cam. Install the valve and see what the existing tappet clearance is....If I have an existing clearance of say, .008" and I desire .014, simple arithmetic tells me I need to take off .006, so I'll take off .005 and recheck...I like to 'creep up' and double check the final setting....If you cannot insert your thinnest feel gauge [.0015?] in that initial test, and, again, you are seeking a .014 clearance, then grind the .014 off and recheck, again, just easing up on the amount to come off for the final coupla thou. The time it has taken me to type this nonsense, I coulda done a couple!!
 
my2nd40 said:
For you guys who use non adjustable lifters, what is your method to determine how much to grind off the valve stem to arrive at the correct valve lash. Pictures if you have them, measurement tools if you use them. TIA
Click to expand...

All you need is a standard feeler gauge.
 
I own the tool mentioned above and used it yesterday. I can post a photo when I get to work Monday. It makes it where I can do a non adjustable valve job quicker than that of using adjustable lifters. It is a gauge that sits in place of the valve and guide and gives you a measurement. Then I have a Sioux valve stem gauge that gives me that measurement. Subtract one from the other and add in the lash you want and on the grinder it’s easy peezy.
 
Pete's method is what I use. However, Syem length is important when using adjustable lifters, The adj lifters were designed to aide the valve adjustment when grinding the valves. The locking mechanism of the lifter doesn't have much travel and whrn using on a HI lift cam usually doesn't hold. Back in the day they had lifter screws with thicker heads to make up the difference. This is deffinately the problem with the L-100 cam, or other cams with more than .3550" lift. So I use the chevy valve which id .060"??? Longer than the Ford valve.
Gramps
 
Hey Pete and Mike: Explain the procedure to weld up the stem tips of the valves to add more material and also what welding process and type of rod you use.

This is the other 1/2 of the equation, when the valves are too short (think high-lift cam). ;)
 
Here is the tool that I use, anyone with a lathe and basic machinist / fabrication skills could duplicate it easy enough.
Tom
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230128_115057365_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230128_115057365_HDR.jpg
    41.9 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_20230128_115038235.jpg
    IMG_20230128_115038235.jpg
    40.5 KB · Views: 62
Bored&Stroked said:
Hey Pete and Mike: Explain the procedure to weld up the stem tips of the valves to add more material and also what welding process and type of rod you use.

This is the other 1/2 of the equation, when the valves are too short (think high-lift cam). ;)
Click to expand...

The welding for stainless valves is just simple TIG welding. I use 347 stainless rod. It precipitates less carbides when cooling. I clean the sides off the weld on a bench grinder by hand. It could be done in a lathe also. The length can be cut either on a lathe or the tip facer on a valve grinder. We haven't had to weld stainless valves in recent years since we started using John Deere valves. They have 5/16 chrome plated stems that come plenty long to just cut off and regroove the required length. The heads are 1.85 dia. so plenty to cut to any size for a flathead Ford.
After you have done a few engines, it is faster to do the job this way than do a set of adjustables.
We use titanium valves in most of our engines now and they come plenty long so no welding needed. They can be welded though.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Hey Pete and Mike: Explain the procedure to weld up the stem tips of the valves to add more material and also what welding process and type of rod you use.

This is the other 1/2 of the equation, when the valves are too short (think high-lift cam). ;)
Click to expand...

I can’t comment as I use stock cams usually NOS and sometimes chevy valves and haven’t had to lengthen any, plus unlike most of you in only building 3-5 engines a year
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top