Valve seat cutters

Are you trying to grind existing valve seats like you would do for a valve job OR are you talking about installing new valve seats?
https://www.google.com/search?q=for...i57j0i22i30.8808j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Also this:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-valve-seat-machine.627796/

Some flatheads used hardened valve seat inserts and later blocks did not.
Will that make a difference?

You can get an idea of brands on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...13&_nkw=flathead+valve++seat+grinder&_sacat=0

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82773
 
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Neway cutters. I used an old B&D seat grinder set successfully for years, but recent issues with the quality of grinding stones had me frustrated. Bought a set of Neway cutters and will never go back to stones. They do a great job.
 
What do youall use for a guide. Anything I've tried is pretty loose and sloppy. And, yes, I have an old accessory guide that was intended for valve seat work, but it is also sloppy.
 
Neway is selling me a guide that twist tight, I dont know, but Ill post a pic of it soon as I get it
 
Elwood, are you going to use the manual tool to turn the cutter or did you spring for the drive motor? It seems like no more than I would use it, the manual method would work for me.
 
bobH said:
What do youall use for a guide. Anything I've tried is pretty loose and sloppy. And, yes, I have an old accessory guide that was intended for valve seat work, but it is also sloppy.
Click to expand...

I use the original flathead pilot that came in the old Black and Decker set I have. Locates in both the lifter and guide bores. Works great.
 
Zeke3 said:
Elwood, are you going to use the manual tool to turn the cutter or did you spring for the drive motor? It seems like no more than I would use it, the manual method would work for me.
Click to expand...

My experience with these cutters is that they tend to 'chatter', if you try to work them 'fast'. I'm thinking that a drive motor would be the last thing I would want. For a 'smooth' result, I've been working them pretty slow, and light.
One of my close machine shop relatives won't even consider using these things, because of the quality of the finish they produce. He swears that only a properly used stone can achieve the finish that he shoots for. So, I've become biased... I have experimented, to try and achieve the same finish that he achieves with his stones. And, that has led me to the 'pretty slow, and light', for the final finish. Just opinion, and I'm open to other thoughts and suggestions.
(And, BTW, I have owned my Neway cutters since the 1970's, and have used them numerous times, for a variety of different engines.)
 
I insert a guide with a retainer and spring and use a regular pilot. Michael Driskell told me he just drives in a knurled guide. Wish I had access to an accurate lathe so I could make one up.

As for finish I use a light cut for the end. Also I have never heard of a bad valve job due to finish. Even back in my inexperienced days they ran ok. Not that I'm experienced now either.
 
I am hooked on Neway now.. As franks mentions I use a knurled guide as a pilot. I use a cutter with a 45 on one side and a 30 on the other
 
I used a split guide, and a 5/16" pilot (expandable) before acquiring the proper pilot for flathead.
For a smooth finish, try a bit of soapy water for a lubricant on the seat. I've used Simple Green also.
I've hand cut seats- flathead is hard to set up with Neways motor rig. I've also used a 1/2" deep socket on a drill motor. Hand power gives a better feel.

Karl
 
Im thinking slow and easy, so im going with the hand tool, they shipped today so ill post a pic of what i get, thanks everyone for the input
 
bobH said:
My experience with these cutters is that they tend to 'chatter', if you try to work them 'fast'. I'm thinking that a drive motor would be the last thing I would want. For a 'smooth' result, I've been working them pretty slow, and light.
One of my close machine shop relatives won't even consider using these things, because of the quality of the finish they produce. He swears that only a properly used stone can achieve the finish that he shoots for. So, I've become biased... I have experimented, to try and achieve the same finish that he achieves with his stones. And, that has led me to the 'pretty slow, and light', for the final finish. Just opinion, and I'm open to other thoughts and suggestions.
(And, BTW, I have owned my Neway cutters since the 1970's, and have used them numerous times, for a variety of different engines.)
Click to expand...

Im thinking that only the 45 cut needs the stone finish, the top and under cuts are just used to narrow your 45, so you could cut all 3 of your angles then lap finish the 45,
 
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