Valve lash/lifter question

burner31

burner31

Well-known member
Pulled my head to change a seeping head gasket.
While I was there checked my valve lash, (been hearing some noise in there) was hoping previous owner installed adjustable lifters when he did the motor back in the early '60's...no such luck.
Cylinders look good with .80 over pistons installed by previous owner.
Intake lash is: valve 2=.016, valve 3=.014, valve 6=.017, valve 7=.020
Exhaust lash is: valve 1=.018, valve 4=.016, valve 5= .016, valve 8=.017
Intake should be .013, so I have one close and three way out
Exhaust should be .015, so I have two close and two way out
This has to be resolved.
Here's my plan:
Head going in to get milled (tomorrow)
New exhaust manifold (rear cyl. port is sagging out of alignment)
Lap current valves (compression was 50-55 all cyl)
New valve springs
New valve guides
Install single nut adjustable lifters
Install new timing gear (since cam has to come out anyway)
Clean oil pump since I'm there
All comments and advice will be appreciated, and if you can add some humor into this that would be great too, since it took me two days to get that damn head off.
 
Getting the head off is sometimes the hardest part of the job.

Beings you will have the pan off, I would check bearing clearances.

Also be sure to install the gland rings in the exhaust ports. This will help to keep things in alignment and support the rear of the exhaust manifold.

Other than that, it sounds like you are on the right track.

My opinion,

Chris W.
 
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Keith,


It sounds like you have a plan, that is a good start.
Always good to check all bearings/shims.
If I can add something here, be careful of the lifters you put in. I had a fellow bring in some single adjust ones and the foot diameter was too small. Make sure to use ones the same if not slightly larger than your current ones.


Humor, none, but I bet you said some words getting that head off you don't normally say...............


Enjoy and stay safe, John
 
Just curious. If the valve lash has been fixed, why install adjustable lifters ? My engine was rebuilt in 1961, I've had it since 1975, and the lash has stayed at .016-.017" since I've owned it. They don't move around much.

There is one other in the area I've looked at with original lifters and that one hasn't changed either.

It seems like your engine is in good shape. It might be a good idea to check the bearing clearances and the oil pump. If the bearing material is in good shape and the bearings just need a little adjusting, I'd just do that and run it.

But, then, sometimes one is just is compelled to play with things. I know if my hands stay clean for too long I start to suffer withdrawal symptoms.
 
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Patrick, my valve lash has not been fixed, that is why I'm going to adjustable lifters.
As recommended I'll get the glads, and check bearings on rod's, and I'll measure the lifters I pull out and make sure the new ones are equal or bigger.
Thank you all.
One other thing often forgotten is: I'll change the cam spring and plunger.

My joke for the day: People want to know about my motor, so they ask " What bore's your engine"?
I reply: "Sitting around all day"
 
I realize this is more work but pulling the engine and working off an engine stand makes the job easier,cleaner and your less apt to make a booboo..Since you have the head off and checking rod bearings,slide the piston/rods out,hone cylinder and put on new rings,along with lapping valves and adjusting bearings this give you the full deal,an old fashioned overhaul without paying 4500..
 
burner31 said:
One other thing often forgotten is: I'll change the cam spring and plunger.
Click to expand...

Be careful which cam plunger spring you buy. There are some out there that are not stiff enough and you will pick up a bad noise in the front of the engine.


I went thru this and finally went to Bert's in Colorado. They had the correct one.


Also, I agree with removing the engine. It is a lot easier to work on and you can do a better job.


I do not know about honing the cylinders and replacing the rings. This would depend on how much wear shows at the top of the bore and how the cylinder walls look.


My suggestion,


Chris W.
 
UPDATE: Heads has two cracks, guess I need a new head, this could have been my problem all along.
Cylinders look great, so the rings are staying
Timing gear looks new, so that is staying
Previous owner did a lot of work on the engine but never ran it, and it sat for over 50 years till I got it.
Just wish he would have put in the adjustable lifters, speaking of which...when did they come out?
Previous owner did his work in the early '60's, were adjustable s out then?
 
I found that the Cadillac V 16 engine (Model 452) first offered in 1930 was the first to have hydraulic lifters.
 
If the head is cracked in the center between the water ports you can still use it..even if its cracked from water port to stud hole..
 
You can see the two cracks marked in the center top around a bolt hole to the water jacket.
Is this head any good to use?
 

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