Pete
BANNED
Thanks Pete. That raises a question for me. If it is a little loose how do I fix that ? Can a guy knurle the guide or use shims ?
A fine knurl will work for a street engine.
Use some high temp loctite also.
Thanks Pete. That raises a question for me. If it is a little loose how do I fix that ? Can a guy knurle the guide or use shims ?
Now I know this is going to sound harsh but,...... I have '38 24 stud that I was not going to reuse ANY of the valve train, and the guides were stuck pretty good. So I used a cutting torch and cut the valve springs and stems cleanly, pulled the valves out the top and using a drift, hammered the guides out into the valley area. I was done in little over an hour.
I recently decided to put a really fine knurl on the OD of the guides - tested it with an old one first. When they are pulled up into the block, the knurling is almost completely flattened down and the guide does get quite a bit more 'snug' in the bore. As Pete noted, this isn't the most scientific/best way to do things (especially for a competition engine where heat is more of an issue - I like his 'copper plating' method) - but seems to work fine so far.
Here is a link to a couple videos that I made:
Problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZBXFMqHs-c
Little Knurling Solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqYqBIy1BAI
Note: I also use an o-ring on the intakes and I always use the correct exhaust guides on the exhaust side. The exhaust guides should NOT have the o-ring groove cut into them. I see a lot of companies selling 16 intake guides in their sets - I won't go this route. I want as much surface area as possible on the exhaust guide ODs (like Henry did) to take heat out of the exhaust valve and transfer it to the block.