valve guides in 59ab

With the 59A style valves(mushroom stems) it will not be possible to remove the valves through the guides until the guides are out of the block. Avoiding damage to the valves and guides can be a serious challenge. Often the ends of the guides will break. Having been through the experiences on a few old engines makes the job only slightly easier. I often follow some of the suggested methods and go directly to destructive procedures.
 
big job said:
My two cents, by now those long pry bars are useless they did work when the engine
probably was in its prime. Simply use a spring compressor remove keepers remove
springs, valves and bang the guide down with a 5/8 socket no damage what so ever.
Good practice to stick a magnet in the area of those little trolls 'keepers' when removing.
When assembling, now you can use the bar.
Click to expand...

Not possible on a 59a :D

R
 
Hi everybody - - thanks for all the input just what I needed. I ordered a complete valve rebuild set using 8ba valves and guides. Now I'll take my time and get the old guides out. I think I'll follow JSeery's advice and break the heads off and knock down the guides. This engine has so much sludge I can't see the keepers. That's what started this whole thing. I just wanted to do a cleanout, I think I'll name my ford ole' snowball. Thanks for all the help Good to hear from Ron.
 
Drill into the center of the valve head,the head will eventually come off,cut thru the spring and valve just below the guide and drive em down and out.
 
Hello everyone Thanks for all your input. t's a good feeling thanks. I ordered a complete valve set. I'm getting the 8ba valves, new guides and springs. Now I can take my time and get out the guides. I think I like JSeery's advice. Something about a torch in the valley, just doesn't sit with me. I'm sure it would work, but I guess I'm a little chicken ----. You know this whole project just started over cleaning out the sludge. I removed the intake and saw such a mess, I couldn't even see the lifters for the sludge. Everywhere there was this rust colored goop. I couldn't believe it. I don't know how the oil ever got back into the pan. It will be right when I'm done, thanks to all your help.
 
Just thought I would offer an update. I finally went ahead and broke 12 valves heads off and knocked the guides down and removed the keepers. Put some 50/50 on them and I'll let them set until Thurs. I'll be busy all day tomorrow. I still have 4 more valves to break and then I'll tackle the guides. Several of the guides were not stuck, which surprised me. Do they normally float around in the block ? Oh well everything worked out so far thanks to your input. Pat
 
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Ron - - I remember my father putting castor oil in the gas tank of his race car. 39 Ford of course. He said it would help oil the upper end. Have you ever heard of that ? This was in the early 50's. I remember he built a lot of flatheads. He built one for Bonneville. It ran alcohol and had three carbs. That was my favorite. He had that one in his shop along with the car. A 32 or 33 five window. No fuel pump you had to pump it up yourself. Damn - the memories huh ?
 
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"Several of the guides were not stuck, which surprised me. Do they normally float around in the block ?"

Assuming you are going to use one piece guides,
they should NOT be loose in the block. If they are it will be impossible to get 100% seating of the valve.
There are several options here. Since the valves are partially cooled by heat transfer through the stems, the best option is to have the new guide copper flash plated on the OD. This way they don't put so much copper on that you have to resize the OD. You can just press them in and go. Any excess copper will shear off when going in.
Another good way is to make a guide from bar stock with the right oversize OD.
The last option is completely Mickey Mouse and you will lose about half of the heat dissipation from guide to block.
Knurl the OD and press it in. Let the excess shear off.
Good luck with this method.
 
Well Hell. I ordered my valve set on the 31, and I got the thing today.
Not bad for me, usually I wait at least a week. I better get busy.
 
I used to spend hours trying to get the originals out . . . only to throw the mushroom valves and split guides away. Last one I took apart had sat for 40 years - was a tough one (but a 32 block, so it was worth saving). I just used a big pair of bolt cutters - got the jaws into the valley, wedged into the springs and used about all my strength to bolt-cut the damn valve stems. Some of the valve tops/heads really went flying - almost broke my fluorescent lights! Had all the old junk out of there in less than a couple hours. I think I had to take a nap afterwards . . .

Usually I have to go caveman on the older/rusted engines - whatever it takes!
 
Up-date Well I decided to flush out the sludge so I can see the lifters and bottom keepers on this 59 ab. I'm using diesel, and it's working great. I don't now how oil could get back to the pan. I had to hunt for those return holes. I'm just about ready to drop the pan. I want to rinse everything out one final time. Drain the goop out of the pan, then get back to those damned guides. I have been soaking the guides in acetone and MMO. Hopefully that will help out. I'm not to the "caveman stage" yet, but I have surprised myself with my vocabulary. Well thanks for your support, I'll need it I'm sure I'll ------- need it.
 
HELLO FOLKS

I have just finished removing old valves and guides. I think anybody that goes through that, plus drilling out and tapping four broken studs should qualify as a "Barner". Whachathink. Man what a job. But now I want to finish cleaning the valley out and attack the mess in the oil pan.

I have a question about the guides. I have the chevy valves, and the new guides. My question is how tight should the fit be with the new guides in the block? It's probably a silly question, but I'm just trying to figure out how things work here. Does that top keeper hold everything in place or is the bore for the guides tapered on top ? Thanks:confused:
 
The valve guide holes should not be tapered, if they are there is a ware issue. The clip holds the whole assembly in place.
 
jseery - Thanks that's what I thought. I can't wait to get it all cleaned up. It's amazing, the amount of sludge that builds up. Thanks again Pat
 
The guides should fit in the block with a light tap/press fit.
Metal to metal to .0005 press is ok for a street engine.
If they are loose, you can not get a true valve seat that will seal.
 
Thanks Pete. That raises a question for me. If it is a little loose how do I fix that ? Can a guy knurle the guide or use shims ?
 
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