valve guides in 59ab

Prawbly

Prawbly

Senior Member
Before I even start I thought it might be interesting to know if there is a BEST way to remove valves guides n my 59 ab. I would really appreciate some comments on that because it looks like a rough job to do and not tear something up. - Pat :rolleyes:
 
It depends on what you are replacing,trying to save, sometimes the best way is to break off the valve heads, sometime ripping out the lock clips, sometime all that is needed is the tool to pull the guide down, there were many tools made to do this job, screw presses, lever tools , punches that fit around the valve head----sometimes all the methods are needed on the same engine
 
The last 59a I took apart required breaking the valve heads off to drive out the guides on several of the valve guides. Sometimes they can be a real pain to get out.
 
Use your guide bar to lower the valve guide slightly and use a needle nose plyers to pull the guide keeper off. Then use the guide bar to raise the guide, valve and spring out of the top of the block. If you need special tools look at Patricks web site. They make a valve puller (after removing the keeper)
 
On real stubborn guides I use heat, as some do for stuck Pistons. A little flammable liquid in the right spot, light it, and when it goes out pry away!
 
thanks you guys. Sounds like a battle no matter what tool or tools I have. Would heat be of any benefit ? I'll try Patricks' and see what a guide bar is. No matter it's not going to be nice. I just hate tearing something up like that, but I'll do what's necessary. Thanks again. Pat
 
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lube with lots of MMO before you start and wear gloves. Can be easy and can be a b.... you will not know until you start.
 
A valve guide bar is nearly essential when mucking around with these engines. Makes life so much easier. I made a retainer remover out of 1/4" rod bent and ground down to fit in the retainer hole.
 
Bassman/NZ said:
A valve guide bar is nearly essential when mucking around with these engines.
Click to expand...

That's true IF you can get the guides to move at all. I have had to get the valve head out of the way to get a good hit on the guides to get them to move enough to pull the horseshoe keepers. I know they make a tool to reach around the valve to tap the guides, but the valves are often not reusable anyway and some the guides are really stuck. I must dissemble engines in much worse condition that some others. ;)

Also, just a comment on the valve bars, almost all of the repo ones I have tried to use are junk at best. I would suggest finding an original/time-period one. I have found a couple on ebay. Night and day difference over the newer ones IMHO.

This is one style of valve guide driver.
 

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If its fairly stuck getting the guidelocks out in a destructive way and then the KD-918 clamp to get the assembly out.
That destroys a minimum of valve parts.
If its badly stuck brute force and bad language is involved.
 
Yeah, even my old kd 240 prybar succumbed in trying to budge the guides. Had to use a drift from a ground-down open-end wrench that cleared the heads and stems enough to reach the guides. Looked a bit like the one JSeery posted above. Then hooked the horseshoes and pounded away. Just didn't have the heart to snap the heads off a good set of mushrooms. But the real fun part came when using the cam and wedges to push the semi-loosened guides out the ports. Had to use a cloth net to catch all the shrapnel once the spring-loaded guides finally let loose from their bores. 8^)

Jack E/NJ
 
Now I know this is going to sound harsh but,...... I have '38 24 stud that I was not going to reuse ANY of the valve train, and the guides were stuck pretty good. So I used a cutting torch and cut the valve springs and stems cleanly, pulled the valves out the top and using a drift, hammered the guides out into the valley area. I was done in little over an hour.
 
Shoebox said:
Now I know this is going to sound harsh but,...... I have '38 24 stud that I was not going to reuse ANY of the valve train, and the guides were stuck pretty good. So I used a cutting torch and cut the valve springs and stems cleanly, pulled the valves out the top and using a drift, hammered the guides out into the valley area. I was done in little over an hour.
Click to expand...

Yup, a plasma cutter is even faster.
 
I'm beginning to see the light. I'll get my protective gear on and "Getherdone"
thanks to all, I appreciate it.
 
Your best bet is to find someone that's done it before. Also, I'd replace them with 8BA valves and guides. The early split guides had poor oil control
 
My two cents, by now those long pry bars are useless they did work when the engine
probably was in its prime. Simply use a spring compressor remove keepers remove
springs, valves and bang the guide down with a 5/8 socket no damage what so ever.
Good practice to stick a magnet in the area of those little trolls 'keepers' when removing.
When assembling, now you can use the bar.
 
I have had some success using a tire iron down the inlet port to push the guide halves down to get the horseshoe clip out.

Use care and don't go mad and no damage should be done.

You're back to any of the other methods with the exhausts though. I have stripped some very old motors and not had to deliberately cut or damage a valve.

I agree that using the 8ba style valves and keepers is a much easier prospect.

Mart.
 
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