valve cover connection

hakon

hakon

Junior Member
Hi!
Can someone please explain how this works on a 312 thunderbird.
It's connected between the valve covers and down to a oil unit.
I don´t think its original.
 

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You are right it's not original. That is a retro-fit to improve oiling of the rocker arm shaft. It is a somewhat common fix for curing a noisy valve train due to lack of oil. It was done to both I6s and V8s.
 
Basically it is bypassing the internal oil passages. It connects from the main oil galley in the block to the rocker arm shafts. Usually installed when the oil passages running through the block and head became plugged due to lack of proper maintenance. Also used when center cam bearing spins or is installed incorrectly. And the final reason could be worn center cam bearing (or the center cam journal groove wasn't machined deep enough).

Most installations I've seen are at the rear of the engine so they are not noticeable. Looks like a clean installation though and insures that you are getting oil to top end.

If your engine was rebuilt recently you may be able to get away with removing it (if any and all reasons mention above were corrected AND you are satisfied that you are getting oil to the top end without it.

otherwise leave it alone.
 
This is Called The "Kentucky Oiler " Basically explained with everyone above, Simply "T-ing" The oil Pump To Dump More Oil Up Top I Have heard Mixed Views On The KO setup.
 
Yeah, it's considered a bandaid at best... you just know someone put it on there because they were too cheap or lazy to find the real reason they have no oil to the valve train. :eek:
 
The oil refining process in the '50s was a far cry from what it is today. Back then, sludge buildup in the engine could plug up the oil passages. "Top-oilers" were commonly installed to feed oil to the rockers. If the engine has been rebuilt in the past couple decades and properly maintained, the top-oilers probably are not needed anymore.
 
How the heck are they getting oil to the rockers using a fitting on top of that stud. Usually a line is run under the valve covers and connecting to where the oil overflow plugs in. This seems like a lot work to do a simple job.
I may be a doubting Thomas but this setup does not seem right.
Regards
 
the design of that oiling system for the rockers was one of the worst setups ford ever designed, there is no way to clean the passage because it goes up thru the block to the head, then it makes a 90 degree turn, runs along for about an inch between the block and head, and the it makes another 90 degree turn up thru the head and into the rocker arm assembly, its that one inch passage between the block and head where the problem starts, the heat boils and burns the oil into a heavy sludge and stopping oil flow, and as i said earlier there is no way to clean the passage because of the two 90 degree turns, why ford didnt run the oil passage straight thru the head to the rocker arms, that way it could at least could have been opened up
 
Rick, the stud is hollow with a hole cross drilled in it where it goes thru the rocker arm, thus letting the oil flow into the rocker shaft and then to the rocker arms
 
ford3 said:
it goes up thru the block to the head, then it makes a 90 degree turn, runs along for about an inch between the block and head, and the it makes another 90 degree turn up thru the head and into the rocker arm assembly, its that one inch passage between the block and head where the problem starts...
Click to expand...

That is why a lot of guys are 'Porting' this section by making the transition deeper in the head and rounding off any corners as much a possible. Especially if you have had your heads milled, make sure you pay attention to the transition. Perfect solution, No. But it helps and together with todays oils and PCV systems, along with proper maintenance should alleviate any problems.

And yes Rick. The valve cover studs are hollow. Using the hollow stud makes it so you don't have to modify your valve covers (especially the alum T-Bird ones :eek:).
 
I figured that stud must be hollow but to me it gets interesting trying to get the oil into the rocker shaft because from my recollection the stud doesn't go through the rocker shaft, so you then have to drill through the pedestal and the rocker shaft and then plug the pedestal so you get oil into the shaft.
To me it seems easier to just pull the heads clear out the crossover and clean out the galley coming up from the cam. I agree that the design is not one of fords best, but I have driven late model fuel injected windsors that driven hard on a long time lost oil to the lifters. I used to be a paramedic here in Oz and it was nothing to have to drive an F250 ambulance for 100 miles at 90 mph only to find the engine slowing down due to hydraulic lifters bleeding down.
Regards
 
rick55 said:
I figured that stud must be hollow but to me it gets interesting trying to get the oil into the rocker shaft because from my recollection the stud doesn't go through the rocker shaft, so you then have to drill through the pedestal and the rocker shaft and then plug the pedestal so you get oil into the shaft.
Click to expand...

Been a long time but I seem to remember there is a piece that fits over the rocker stand and routes the oil into the overflow tube, essentially pressurizing the rockers in the process. Also usually a valve to regulate and distribute the oil to each bank. Of course if your shafts also are gunked up your screwed.

rick55 said:
To me it seems easier to just pull the heads clear out the crossover and clean out the galley coming up from the cam.
Click to expand...

Won't get any arguments from me here if that is the case (and most common) but there are other reasons for loss of oil to top end. I've seen new builds that have no oil to one side due to the machinist installing the cam bearings incorrectly.
 
Many years ago I had a newly rebuilt 292 Y block that would not oil the rocker arm assembly.. No mater what we did we could not get oil up through the block..
The machine shops excuse was that the Y blocks were all junk from the get go, not their problem.. Screwed again.. I dislike most engine re-builders with a passion.
We put external oilers on the engine so we could get the truck back to work.. In short order the engine developed other problems. We pulled the engine, went to Ford and bought a factory rebuilt from them, giving them the problem engine as a core..
During the following years that we operated the company trucks that had Y blocks, whenever we needed an engine replacement we purchased an engine from the local Ford dealer..
I can honestly say that I/we had very little trouble with the Y-blocks, we always used Castrol GTX 20/50 which kept them very clean...
I currently have two vehicles with Y blocks, a '57 T-Bird (312).. '59 F100 4x (312)..
 
hakon said:
Hi!
Can someone please explain how this works on a 312 thunderbird.
It's connected between the valve covers and down to a oil unit.
I don´t think its original.
Click to expand...

If you carefully review the pix you will note a small screw with a jamb nut through the "T" fitting... This screw was used to regulate the oil flow to the rocker arm assembly..
Installing this "Rube Goldberg" oiling assembly required careful attention to the instructions: i.e..The entire rocker arm assembly had to be removed from the engine, removing the rocker arm studs from the heads, re-placing same with the new hollow studs. The studs had to be placed very carefully, hole in stud at the 3:00 or 9:00 position, to insure proper placement with in the rocker shaft tower..
The rocker arm assembly is then installed, the valves adjusted, oiler installed and the engine started.. The oil flow to the rocker arms is checked. adjusted as needed with the small screw.. When the engine has warmed up the valve adjustment is checked for correctness.. The external oiler is removed, valve covers and oiler is installed.
As you can see the whole process is not just a simple bolt on deal..
Adjusting the valves on a Y block can be a pain, especially if you don't have the special SNAPON stepped feeler gauge.. The you still have to deal with all of the oil that got slung around the engine compartment..
I use to have a pair of valve covers that I cut the center out of so I could view the oil flow while the engine was warming up.. Less mess..
The addition of plastic wire loom covers is a nice neat touch, however, a suggestion might be in order.. PAINLESS has a very neat braided style of split wire loom cover.. Much neater looking
 
Contrary to popular belief the oil passages are cleanable without disassembly.
1; Remove rockers and push rods.
2;Clean oil passage in head with proper sized drill bit.
3;Pour aceatone down hole and let soak.
4;Start engine. It will run on one bank only!
5;Oil should flow.
6;If no oil repeat 1 thru 5. Sometimes blow high pressure air down passage while engine is running.
This method worked for me many times in the '60's when I was driving "Y" blocks.
 
blucar said:
The addition of plastic wire loom covers is a nice neat touch, however, a suggestion might be in order.. PAINLESS has a very neat braided style of split wire loom cover.. Much neater looking
Click to expand...

Jeg's sells the same or similar braided wire cover for about half the price...
 
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ther is no way to clean the oil passage to the rocker arms on the 292 engine once its plugged, the oil has become carbon because of the engine heat, and there is no penetrant that will soften carbon by just sitting on top of it, penetrant might work if there is some oil flow, but with out some flow past the plug nothing can be flowed out, just like a radiator no water flow in the tubes no way to get them clean
 
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I can attest to the fact that many of the early '50's V8's had lubrication problems.. The GM V8's, Cad's, Olds, and Pontiac all suffered with lifter problems.. The Ford Y blocks did not have hydraulic lifters like the GM engines, they just had very restrictive oil passages which quickly became fouled, sludged up, as a result of the non-detergent oil that people insisted on using..
It was very common in the early '50's to have a vehicle pull up alongside at a stoplight, the rattling lifters would emit a sound similar to a diesel engine....
 
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