Valve Adjustment

P

Peyton

Senior Member
Did a valve job with original non-adjustable valves and removed head for access.

Had someone ask if the head has to be removed to adjust double lock type lifters. I had to say I really didn't know.

The answer must be obvious because I could find no reference to this in the message archives. I'm embarrassed to ask but need to know. What say you? Thanks!
 
You are welcome. And, just an FYI, it will make things a lot easier if you remove the intake/exhaust manifolds before adjusting those valves.
 
As mentioned above, remove the intake/exhaust manifolds, remove valve chamber cover, and adjust using very thin wrenches. Craftsman, Mac, Snap On, and others make valve adjustment wrenches just for this purpose.

If you number the valves from front of motor being #1 and rear of motor being #8, then-

When 1 and 6 are down, adjust 3 and 8.
When 2 and 4 are down, adjust 5 and 7.
When 3 and 8 are down, adjust 1 and 6.
When 5 and 7 are down, adjust 2 and 4.
 
You can also grind down a standard width wrench. I also managed to find a thin no-name 1/2" wrench at a flea market.
 
A quick way to tell if the valves being adjusted are completely down and the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke is to watch the valves of the cylinder 180 degrees opposite in the firing order. Rotate the crankshaft back and forth enough to rock the camshaft. The valves for that cylinder will rock back and forth with the cam. Firing order 1 2 4 3. #4 is 180 away from #1 so when you have #1 where you think the piston is at TDC check for valve movement/rocking on #4. The valves on #1 shouldn't move. A good place to start is with the timing pin inserted into the dimple in the cam gear and look through the spark plug hole to observe the top of the piston. That puts #1 at TDC on the compression stroke.
 
And why remove the exhaust manifolds? You must be charging by the hour.

ooops! forgot what forum I was on. Thinking V8's
 
Last edited:
Growley bear said:
A quick way to tell if the valves being adjusted are completely down and the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke is to watch the valves of the cylinder 180 degrees opposite in the firing order. Rotate the crankshaft back and forth enough to rock the camshaft. The valves for that cylinder will rock back and forth with the cam. Firing order 1 2 4 3. #4 is 180 away from #1 so when you have #1 where you think the piston is at TDC check for valve movement/rocking on #4. The valves on #1 shouldn't move. A good place to start is with the timing pin inserted into the dimple in the cam gear and look through the spark plug hole to observe the top of the piston. That puts #1 at TDC on the compression stroke.
Click to expand...

Boy, did I cop an ear full from a (Now Banned) member when I said this. You are quite correct, this is an easy way to bring a motor to TDC ready to time it.
 
What I have done for years is with the head off, bring piston up so both valves are closed, then slowly turn motor over until one of the valves just starts to lift of it's seat.

The valve still seated is all the way down, so adj as necessary, then do repeat to do the other. Has always worked for me Model A, lawn mower or full blown racing eng.
FWIW
 
I'm not going to remove a head just to check valve lash. I'm a big block Chrysler nut and have had to remove the intake manifolds to check them, but, thats about as far I'll go for that task. [ smiley face]
 
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