Valve adjusting

T

tenniesgrandpa

Junior Member
In all the posts I see on adjusting valves there is a lot of emphasis on turning the engine "cam" as little as possible, and that's understandable. Now why no mention about when pistons are installed, or do some take off the cam gear while pistons are installed?
 
tenniesgrandpa said:
In all the posts I see on adjusting valves there is a lot of emphasis on turning the engine "cam" as little as possible, and that's understandable. Now why no mention about when pistons are installed, or do some take off the cam gear while pistons are installed?
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You are reading the wrong material.
There is only ONE right way to adjust valves.
The cam must be on the heel for the valve being adjusted. You can use any sequence you are comfortable with but the easiest to remember and NOT get confused is start with #1 cylinder exhaust and just go down the line
in numerical order (NOT FIRING ORDER).
There are two ways to get it there.
1- Visually.
2- Rotate engine till the valve being adjusted is full open
then rotate the CRANK one revolution.

Assuming the engine has been assembled properly, there will be plenty of lube on the various parts so that rotating it by hand to get through the valve adjustment sequence will cause no problems.
 
Am about to assemble my '46 V8 and thinking of adjusting lifters (Johnson adjustables) prior to installing pistons, this the right thing to do ?
Also just came across an article on the "flat-spot.com" site where they show an easier way of adjusting the lifters rather then using the holders that come with the lifters. They show drilling a 3/16" hole in the lifter hole, then insert a pin that goes through the slot in the lifter stopping it from turning as you adjust the lifter. Also watching the video there and seeing a hole for each lifter looks like you`d get better lubrication for the lifter.
COMMENTS APPRECIATED
 
Drilling the lifter boss is a normal proceedure for use with adjustable lifters. Especially with a reground cam as the lifter are low in the bosses. Must be done before eengine assembly.

Adjust valves as above. Only one way as Pete sez.
 
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Straightpipes said:
Drilling the lifter boss is a normal proceedure for use with adjustable lifters. Especially with a reground cam as the lifter are low in the bosses. Must be done before eengine assembly.

Adjust valves as above. Only one way as Pete sez.
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Yep X2. I have tried adjusting them without the using the holes and snapped off three sets of those cute little adjusting tools. Drill the holes, get the lifter in place, pin it and adjust.
 
You can also notch the bosses to provide clearance of the adjusting wrench.
 

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Pete said:
You are reading the wrong material.
There is only ONE right way to adjust valves.
The cam must be on the heel for the valve being adjusted. You can use any sequence you are comfortable with but the easiest to remember and NOT get confused is start with #1 cylinder exhaust and just go down the line
in numerical order (NOT FIRING ORDER).
There are two ways to get it there.
1- Visually.
2- Rotate engine till the valve being adjusted is full open
then rotate the CRANK one revolution.

Assuming the engine has been assembled properly, there will be plenty of lube on the various parts so that rotating it by hand to get through the valve adjustment sequence will cause no problems.
Click to expand...


Amen to that! Especially the "to not get confused" part. You nailed it Pete. To do something so important, why would you take a shortcut!
 
Yes, drill the holes on a rebuild. Make one of these if no holes.
 

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It is put in opposite side holes in the lifter. It is many times stronger that the tin jokes. Made from 1/8' music wire. I took the cam gear off so I could rotate the cam. I had to get the lifter up to adjust and then rotate the cam back to check clearance. I ended up taking the engine down again and I drilled the bosses.
 
Andy said:
Yes, drill the holes on a rebuild. Make one of these if no holes.
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That tool can be had at any Motorola or other brand commercial 2 way radio INSTALL shop.
It is used to tighten the nut that holds a roof top antenna on.
 
More people considering rebuilding these engines should invest in some books, before you paint yourself into a corner. All this is covered in my book as well as others. Remember knowledge is power,it wiil also save you some money.
 
i strained my eyes adjusting the lifters on my Friends motor. he had a reground cam , qnd no hole or notch. it was a *****. that motor kicked my ***, but i got em right because i did not want to do it again
 
Also, make sure you drill the 3/16 hole down toward the bottom of the lifter boss - if you don't, you'll not be able to pickup the slot in the lifter when the lifter is on the heel of the cam. This is especially true with high-lift cams (.400 and above) - as the base circle of the cam gets quite small (in order to get that lift). This causes the lifter to fall even further down the hole/bore. I usually drill mine at a bit of an angle. It pays to invest in a couple LONG drill bits - just call McMaster Carr. You won't be able to get your drill and short bits into the valley area.

De-Burr the inside/bore after drilling - making sure you don't leave any metal "bits" anywhere in the engine . . . great way to ruin a set of bearings.

Obviously the engine has to be completely cleaned afterwards . . . preferably in a blast cleaner.

Good luck
 
I'm getting ready to try and clean one valve seat (see post low compression). Can this be done very carefully with the motor together? It would only be for one lifter.
 
jrvariel48 said:
I'm getting ready to try and clean one valve seat (see post low compression). Can this be done very carefully with the motor together? It would only be for one lifter.
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I wouldn´t start drilling the block for sticking in only one lifter in an assembled block if that was the question...

Even if you had to adjust the lifter out of the motor and sticking it back in it wouldnt be to much of a pain.

Assemble it measure the lash take it out measure the lifter with a mic and adjust to right height for correct lash.
 
flatheadmurre said:
I wouldn´t start drilling the block for sticking in only one lifter in an assembled block if that was the question...

Even if you had to adjust the lifter out of the motor and sticking it back in it wouldnt be to much of a pain.

Assemble it measure the lash take it out measure the lifter with a mic and adjust to right height for correct lash.
Click to expand...

And this is exactly why I ask!!
Thank you flatheadmurre!
 
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