V8 Sitting 18 years, won't turn over

flatford8 said:
I’m not a fan of forcing a motor to turn. Even if it starts to turn you can still do damage. Soak it a lot and patience really is the key. I made one of these to turn one over for disassembly........Mark
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That starter/flywheel deal is a pretty slick idea. You get the advantage of gear reduction to apply more force.
I have a tool that uses a chain to go around the lower crank pulley, much like an exhaust cutter, but just uses chain, and a looooong bar. You get really good leverage on the crank. It's worked for me on several engines, but I don't know where to find one. I've had mine for probably 35 years or more. Works MUCH better than using a socket and breaker bar.
 
Zeke3 said:
Remove the intake manifold to see whether some of the valves are stuck. I think you should be able to pry on them with a long valve fork to see if you can move any of them. Removing the intake will also give you the opportunity to see down the intake ports to see what is going on there and get oil directly on those guides. Much easier than removing the heads.
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Keke3 That is a great idea . I think that would be least evasive at this time.
Way less of a chance of braking of bolts in the block.
Thank you for a second opinion.
Vic
 
Thats a very nice tool that Mark made in post 17. Trying to turn it with the crank bolt only allows one direction, tight. Too much violence can break or strip the bolt, going backwards will only loosen it. I prefer the rocking method. Soak the heck out of everything, then get 6 guys, 3 on each end, trans in 3rd, and violently rock it back and fourth.
At my house, I cheat, too expensive to buy 5 guys lunch, so I have a steep hill with asphalt on it and hook up a chain to the bobcat to pull it up hill and let gravity replace the 3 hungry guys on that end. Spray cans with a tube on them can get some spray on the valve guides that are open. Taking the intake off may give some clues, but head removal would be after all else failed. I have broke free lots of motors without a teardown and had good results. best wishes.
 
The soaking with Mystery Marvel oil didn’t free the engine although it looks like the MMO is making it past the rings as the oil dip stick and level show a change. I switched to Kroil yesterday but I’ve decided to pull the intake to get a better look at the valves. I’m still reserving pulling the heads till the last as I still fear breaking a stud(s). I saw a note about using a cutting torch to burn out the stud then blow molten stud remains into the water Jack. That can’t be a good solution can it? Those pieces could get lodged in the water passage’s. Thanks for all your input.
 
flatford8 said:
I’m not a fan of forcing a motor to turn. Even if it starts to turn you can still do damage. Soak it a lot and patience really is the key. I made one of these to turn one over for disassembly........Mark
Click to expand...


This.

Not sure how long the original poster has been trying to free up the motor, but the question was only posted a few days ago. Give it time before you start taking steps you'll regret. Torching out studs? Hold your horses, my friend.

Keep working it little by little. If you can figure out a how to keep tension on the crank nut with a breaker bar while it's soaking, that would be helpful too.
 
You could always pull the cam gear to see if the pistons are stuck or if it's the valves.
Like others have said give the penetrant time to work. That early 1920s Mack truck I have has only been soaking for a year, anytime now I expect it to turnover. Just a few more years might do it. It has steel pistons and even through I think it was rebuilt and never run they are stuck good; I hate to tear it apart because there are zero parts for it. I'm not sure I can even get gaskets for it. Giant engine, I have a spare and it just about tipped my tractor over, 30 hp, about a horsepower for every 33 lbs. I thought about sticking mechanical a jack under the crank handle to put just a little pressure on the crank while its soaking, it might help. Inside it's clean no sign of water but it has a lot of dust that got in there somehow. It had to have set for many years with an opening in it somewhere. That engine has a 1915 patent date, and it has roller lifters in it. You can see them through the large inspection plates. I'm going to need to refinance the house to fill that oil pan.

Here is a spare piston and rod. A slightly larger than a flathead piston, that much more surface to get stuck to the cylinders. Look at the dust inside that supposedly sealed engine. I'm not sure why I hauled this home. Probably because I built a model of a Chain-drive Bulldog truck when I was a kid and I have wanted a "C" cab truck ever since. I might have amounted to something had it not been fore Monogram and Revell plastic model cars turning me into a car guy. I used to love to build the chassis' and then hated to cover them up all that work with the bodies.
 

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Update of frozen Flathead. I pulled the intake and found rust on the valve springs and lifters. (I hope the picture shows). Both water pumps were frozen. I pulled those to have rebuilt. With seeing the rust on the valves I think it best if I pull the heads. If there is rust in the cylinders I can ease my mind if they are clean. If not I’ll be back here to see what you all recommend based on your experience.
 
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Default Re: V8 Sitting 18 years, won't turn over

Update of frozen Flathead. I pulled the intake and found rust on the valve springs and lifters. (I hope the picture shows). Both water pumps were frozen. I pulled those to have rebuilt. With seeing the rust on the valves I think it best if I pull the heads. If there is rust in the cylinders I can ease my mind if they are clean. If not I’ll be back here to see what you all recommend based on your experience.
 
Yes 50/50 mix is best, Then pull the heads. No easy way to do this. Sometimes the rings weld themselves to the cylinders and you have to cut the pistons out.
Gramps.
 
While intake is off, hit the guides with some good penetrating fluid, I like Free All. Pre-emptive step in case a tear down is in order.
 
Yes, "Free All" is a very good deep penetrating fluid that has a pretty
reasonable price. Spray your engine parts often, too. Good luck. ;)




.
 
Years ago I knew a guy that was into Model A's and always had two or three engines under his workbench. One engine was frozen solid. He put a socket on the crank pulley nut with a breaker bar, with a 25 pound weight from his son's barbells hanging from the end. Every few weeks he would walk over to the engine and squirt penetrating oil into the spark plug holes. One day he glanced over and the weight was flat on the ground, so he walked over to the motor, tried the socket and the motor was free. It took months, but I guess the constant pressure from the weight and the penetrating oil worked.
 
If it were mine, I would completely disassemble the engine. But that is just me. Not turned over in 18 years, some valves have been open and air (and moisture) gets into the cylinders and on valve stems. You will likely break rings and maybe a piston forcing it. A barn is different than a heated garage. Good luck with it.
 
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