V8 engine year

JOANNEM

JOANNEM

Senior Member
Can someone take at this picture of this engine & tell me what year it is? About half way into the restoration of my car, someone mentioned that I didn't' have a 32 engine. But they didn't elaborate, they just said it & ran! :confused: My fuel pump now is leaking & it sure doesn't look like the 32 fuel pump that is in the book! So I don't really know what to do now.
Any opinions would be great.
Joanne
 

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Appears to be 35-6 heads, manifold, oilpan and waterpumps from a 36 mounted on a 37 block with blocking plates where the 37 waterpumps were. Its a 221 in engine and certantly a good non original substitute.
 
You may be blonde, but looks like you've done
a great job putting the beauty together!
 
The fuel pump on your engine is very common, only costs about $50 and is easy to replace. You can order one out of any Early V8 style catalog - only takes about 1/2 hour to put a new one on.

Now you just need a mechanic . . . or even do it yourself!

Good luck,

Dale
 
Thank you! It has been a long haul. I am just bummed as I have been trying to drive it & now winter is coming and it still isn't running! Well it is running but the fuel pump is leaking like a sieve! :o(
 
Joanne, JimTn nailed it for you, and it means that you have an excellent version of the Ford V8 engines, certainly much better than the original '32, and to the casual observer, it appears to be correct for your car. Most poeple can only confirm that it is a Ford V8, but Jim got it right on. As for your leaking fuel pump, that version is Post War, not correct for your car, but as good as it gets. An alcohol resistant rebuild kit will make it as new.

I'm not sure you have the best situation below the pump, however. You have a shortened original fuel line at the dash, and a fuel filter between two sections of undetermined rubber hose. A fuel filter is good to have, but I suggest installing a plastic see-through filter at the gas tank, a new copper plated steel fuel line as original, and a new alcohol resistant flex line from the dash to the pump.

With these minor changes, you'll have a great car, good for the road, but not quite up to what you'd need for a point judged Concourse. For that, another few years searching for the correct engine, and quite a lot of money into that project.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
The fuel pump on your engine is very common, only costs about $50 and is easy to replace. You can order one out of any Early V8 style catalog - only takes about 1/2 hour to put a new one on.

Now you just need a mechanic . . . or even do it yourself!

Good luck,

Dale

Thanks Dale!
I found it in the Early Ford Store with a picture that almost matches mine!
Now I have undertaken a lot of jobs, and if I had the tools I would, but I am alittle afraid of messing the car up. And right now it is so pretty & almost everything is new (I am also broke :confused: working on this car!) that I think I need to get the part & get it installed!
Joanne
Click to expand...
 
ford38v8 said:
Joanne, JimTn nailed it for you, and it means that you have an excellent version of the Ford V8 engines, certainly much better than the original '32, and to the casual observer, it appears to be correct for your car. Most poeple can only confirm that it is a Ford V8, but Jim got it right on. As for your leaking fuel pump, that version is Post War, not correct for your car, but as good as it gets. An alcohol resistant rebuild kit will make it as new.

I'm not sure you have the best situation below the pump, however. You have a shortened original fuel line at the dash, and a fuel filter between two sections of undetermined rubber hose. A fuel filter is good to have, but I suggest installing a plastic see-through filter at the gas tank, a new copper plated steel fuel line as original, and a new alcohol resistant flex line from the dash to the pump.

With these minor changes, you'll have a great car, good for the road, but not quite up to what you'd need for a point judged Concourse. For that, another few years searching for the correct engine, and quite a lot of money into that project.
Click to expand...
OK Thanks Alan,
I will cut & paste this & then try to figure out where to get these parts. The outside was easy cause it was all 32, but now I don't have a clue of year. But I did find the fuel pump :)
 
Not a clue yet? LOL! Your engine is a 1937, but with 1936 bolt-on parts so as to be compatible with your car and to look fairly correct to the casual observer. Your fuel pump is from 1946.

About jumping from this post back and forth to your other post, I'm exhausted now. Please consolidate similar questions to one thread? LOL!
 
Sorry Alan,
Frankly I didn't realize until after I did my first thread that it wasn't a 32 & then I was kind of stuck in what to do.
 
Joanne,

Sorry, but other than the air cleaner, fan, motor mount brackets, water inlets, and right side exhaust manifold, nothing on your '37 engine is an original '32 part. Encountering a '37 engine in a pre-'37 Ford is quite common as it became the first choice for engine re-builders starting in '37.

As for Alan's opinion of "better", I suspect that he's never actually owned a '32 with everything under the hood as original and in good working order. What the later V-8 cars gain through better carburetors and intake manifolds they mostly give away due to their increased weight.

Dave
 
Oh oh.Foot in mouth syndrome! David, sorry for that! You gotta know what I meant, though... LOL!

Certainly, a genuine '32 complete running engine would have passed all the major hurdles such as sand core shift and finding a shop that still pours babbitt, pretty rare in this day and age. Just a wild guess here, I imagine that would buy maybe half a dozen running '37 engines?
 
Just a couple things I noted that differ from some others posts. The intake manifold is '37 to ? The fuel pump is '47-'48 glass bowl. If the fuel pump is leaking you may be able to stop that by tightening the thumb screw under the glass bowl, or possibly the slotted screws that hold the top and bottom halves together. If you decide to replace the fp you might consider having Charlie ny (a member here) rebuild one for you.
 
Where is the leak on your fuel pump? Does it appear to be the diaphragm, the glass bowl fuel filter or one or more of the two fittings for the input and output lines? This could be a low $ fix. Is your fuel pump embossed with the "AC" logo on top? If so it may be rebuildable, even if not Charlie Schwendler sells the alcohol proof diaphragm. Charlie most likely has the gasket for the glass bowl filter. By the way if you put a NAPA paper filter in the glass bowl there would be no need for another filter.
 
Terry said:
Where is the leak on your fuel pump? Does it appear to be the diaphragm, the glass bowl fuel filter or one or more of the two fittings for the input and output lines? This could be a low $ fix. Is your fuel pump embossed with the "AC" logo on top? If so it may be rebuildable, even if not Charlie Schwendler sells the alcohol proof diaphragm. Charlie most likely has the gasket for the glass bowl filter. By the way if you put a NAPA paper filter in the glass bowl there would be no need for another filter.
Click to expand...

Terrry
Your advice is well taken. Do you happen to have a Napa number for that paper filter?
Thanks Jay
 
Like a few others have said. It's a 37 engine, you can see the block off plates on the front of the engine where the 37 water pumps bolt on. Walt
 
Alan,

Perhaps babbitt bearing service is hard to come by out west, but it is available elsewhere otherwise there would be an awful lot of Model Ts, As, and Bs up on blocks. At Hershey last month there were at least half a dozen engine re-builders offering the service.

Rebuilding a '32 V-8 is no more costly than a '33, '34, or '35-'36 non LB, but I'll grant you that a '32 block is a much more expensive starting point if its been replaced, as in Joanne's case. The Achilles heel of all the '32-'37 V-8s these days is the rapidly increasing scarcity of rod bearings in sizes for other-than-new crankshafts, especially the +.020 variety, which not surprisingly coincides with what seems to be what's required for a majority of re-ground crankshafts.
 
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