v-8 model a

This is the third post on this subject in the last couple of weeks, they must be
on to something new ;):D

Bob
 
Interesting Replies?

Probably more interesting than the question is the answers. Think Jahndeere would have been better off going to the V8 site. They run a classier act over there for the mostpart. The fault with the HAMB advice is that the sheer volume of posts will quickly pass, wisking away the question so that a novice user may not know how to keep it alive. There many good build strings about A-V8s that should flood a well crafted search on the V8 Barn or even better on the Hamb. That is clearly what is lacking, a good search. Myself, I'm working on an A-V8 project and would like to describe the thrill of slicing through a pristine Model A frame to step the rear of my deluxe roadster. What a wonderful body, makes sabre sawing clearance for the kick all the easier. Won't need the seat risers and curtain pan because of the aircraft seats sitting low in the body. Have this car for 35 years and the cars available then often had original paint and interior. With the legions of restored As carrying the banner for the "as Henry built them", it may be about time that era correct examples are either preserved or restored with greater historical accuracy. The life of our cars didn't end in 1931. Good Luck: Fred A
 
I want to put a 59a v-8 in a 31 a' any suggestions? also jiuce brakes. I need all the advice I can get.
OK. '39-47 brakes will bolt on the front with a cheap little kit from Speedway Motors. They will also bolt on the back with one of two different methods. The first is to either make a slot in the backing plate to clear the spring hanger, or to rotate the backing plate enough to clear. The second is to put the backing plates on upside down, so the cylinder is at the bottom and the emergency brake cable is at the top. The cylinders must be swapped over so they sit the right way up. A kit to mount the V8 master cyl is available too. C&G Ford Parts have brake line kits.
As for the 59A, bolt-on engine mounts are available from Speedway. Use a 37-39 transmission, it will bolt up to the A torque tube. You will have to make up a transmission crossmember, or use a kit one. The radiator will suffice if it's in very good cond by having a rad shop alter the outlets.
That's the guts of it, the minor details are easy enough.
Oops, I forgot about pedals. The A pedals can be replaced by '39 pedal assy/master cyl. Some fabrication will probably be needed in this area.
If you join the Hamb and search for threads by Gashog you will find a whole series of pics and documentation on an AV8 swap, including the method of mounting the rear backing plates upside down.
This is my AV8

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This site has to lighten up! Blow away the youth with the bad "carma" and loose a brother. Maybe he's bringing no-wantings to life, a lot of un-exposed would love to have an ORIGINAL A to buggy-around. SHAME!!!

I ask you, expose your A.

GW
 
Heh heh... I had no guilt in building my AV8 because it had been offered to quite a few restorers (read 20+) and was too rough for them. They all wanted something with minimal rust.... well it took me 9 months to cut out the rust and weld in new metal, install a roof, sort out the subframes etc. Now I get restorers moaning at me because I "ruined a perfectly good Model A" .....
 
We don't need to lighten up, this forum is for a specific demographic. There are other forums for what he needs. He was politely steered in that direction. The other less classy remarkers should go there as well. By the way I think the few original model A's left unmolested should be left alone and I am 41 years old and only 2 years into this hobby. Everyone here at the Barn that I have had to deal with has been top notch.
 
Craig, the few original model A's left? Really?


I could understand using the word "few" when describing a super charged Duesy, but a stock model A? How many stock model As are left, several thousand?

Besdies, the less there are the more valuable they become!


George Miller, his steering wheel is literally on the right side. :)
 
Ok guys i was actualy just coming on to ask a simular question. I love my old truck mecanical breaks and all, but my motor is warn and i have no idea when it will die but one of these days it will. i meen just sence november iv put 25,000 on it. I was thinking about sending my motor out for rebuilding but honestly i dont have an extra 2500 bucks. then as things go I needed the help of the old guy who owns the auto shop next door to my mill hes in his 80s and spends his days sitting in a chair in the shop smoking cigars and ocationaly tinkering on some ones car. Turns out he only works on pre 65 cars and honestly just keeps the lights on in the place to sit with his parts and stay away from his wife. Well it turns out he has 6 good earily flat head v-8 moters that he pulled out of wrecks thouout the years and just stuck in the corner of his shop for the better half of a century. Hes willing to let one go for supper short cash to me like $100. now my question is can i hook up a flathead v8 to the A belhousing use the A mounts and radator? and just be good or is there other things i need to modify the least modifictions the better becouse one of these day i want to send my bangger out for restore and put her back in. This is pretty much just till i can get enough cash to do that.

thanks -Derek
 
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I like flathead V8s as well as the next guy. I would think long and hard before installing one in a good model A. I'm pretty sure that you could have your block assy. rebuilt for less than it will cost to fit your truck out with a flathead. None of the flatheads will mate to the model A bell housing. Most use the 39 top loader transmission, They usually aren't cheap for a good one. you need the pedal and wishbone adaptors. The kick up on the front crossmember has to be cut off. only the small 60 hp flathead clears the model A steering column . If you use original steering column with the 85hp and up flatheads it is necessary to cut a hole in the left frame rail and slide the steering box through, the thickness of the mounting flange and fabricate a mounting bracket. The firewall has to be severely cut to clear the back of the engine. an accelerator assy. will have to be fabricated. Engine and transmission mounts have to be made. I've done it before and still regret it. It would be difficult and expensive to return it to original after installing a flathead v8.. Its your truck.
 
I agree with Purdy, I'd find a cheap running used Model A engine and install it while you rebuild yours. I paid $100 for the one I'm using right now, and although it has a noise, it's been getting me around for several years. Some day I'll finish my original engine and swap them.
 
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