Using a spring spreader and surviving

Bolts

Bolts

Well-known member
Gotta take the rear axles and bells apart. Plan on leaving the banjo and spring in the car.
Never did this before.
With the frame up on stands and the rear axle housing hanging down with the tires off the ground, I imagine the spring bowing together slightly when the weight of the car is off of it. Is the spreader installed at this time and used to slightly spread the spring eyes apart again to take pressure off the shackles and prevent the spring from completely unloading when the shackles are removed?
Will the shackles be a little loose with the spreader pushing the spring eyes apart slightly? Is this how you know it's safe to remove them?
I'm getting a little nervous about this job.
 
Bolts...........What year rear are you talking about? How do you plan to support the weight of the banjo/torque tube? How do you plan to support the tires/axles/bells while you start taking pieces off of the rear assembly, WITHOUT the support of the spring? I believe the spring spreader may not be your biggest concern. If you have the room, you would probably be better off removing the entire rear/torque tube as an assembly, then removing spring. DD
 
I would recommend doing it the way V8 suggests. Once the rear is out of the car it's easier to work on. Don't take the spring tension lightly. I usually remove the cotter pins and loosen the shackle nuts first. Once the spreader gets the tension off the shackles, you can see them go "slack". Remove the nuts and shackle bar from one side and then proceed to the other side. Release the tension from the spring and you are good to go.
 
Thanks for the reply DD.
The car is a '48. Just trying to think this through, I thought with the frame on jack stands and a floor jack under the banjo, I would remove both drums and then the spring shackles.
Then the driver side backing plate and related to get the driver side bell off. Then remove the crown wheel assembly. Don't know what is involved here, but that's as far as I've gotten in my thinking so far.
I have room to remove the entire rear end and do the diff disassembly off the car.
I want to replace one axle and install new seals to keep oil off the brakes.
 
with the chassis on jack stands and the tires still on i used a floor jack under the spring end to release the tension on the shackle . then i used the floor jack to lift the axle to take the tires off and lowered the axle ends on dollies to roll the entire assembly out
 
Bolts said:
Thanks for the reply DD.
The car is a '48. Just trying to think this through, I thought with the frame on jack stands and a floor jack under the banjo, I would remove both drums and then the spring shackles.
Then the driver side backing plate and related to get the driver side bell off. Then remove the crown wheel assembly. Don't know what is involved here, but that's as far as I've gotten in my thinking so far.
I have room to remove the entire rear end and do the diff disassembly off the car.
I want to replace one axle and install new seals to keep oil off the brakes.
Click to expand...

You must remember that once you remove the shackles, the spring no longer supports the weight of the rear end. Also, don't forget that the spring hanger that the shackles hang from on each side is an integral part of each axle bell. If you have the room available, and this being your first time getting into a rear end, you will likely be much happier un-bolting the spring where it mounts up into the rear crossmember. Lower the entire rear down (with the rear of the car raised-up on jack stands), with the spring still attached. Further, disconnect the parking brake cable at front of torque tube. Undo the hydraulic brake hose toward front end of torque tube. Undo speedo cable at torque tube. Undo the four bolts holding torque tube clam shell to rear of trans. Make yourself TWO plywood wheels about 16" or so in diameter with the 5-1/2" wheel bolt pattern. Bolt onto your drums in place of the tall tire/wheel combo, OR JUST USE TWO DOLLIES! Roll the rear end rearward and out from under the car. You'll now be able to do whatever you wish to the rear without grunting and swearing underneath the car while laying on your back. DD
 
I am with Coopman with the exception you can roll it out on the brake drums if you lift it so the spring just clears the cross member .Also the oil seal in the brake drum should stop your oil leaks plus the oil catcher ring on the backing plate. When using a spring spreader you first remove the shackles on one end only while its under tension ,its safer .Remove the spring spreader then the last shackle .Ted
 
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Alex, if you have the room, and not constrained by time, yes, removal of the banjo from the car is the more comfortable way to work, as the others have said, particularly if you plan on removal of both bells to replace the oil seals. The difference in this case is simply the unbolting of the torque tube from the banjo, and removal of the driveshaft pin. I personally would leave the spring bolted to the frame, and remove the assembly from the spring.

No matter which way you do the job, you'll see the optimum position of the shackles for removal as being parallel to each other, which indicates close to zero differential between a sprung and unsprung assembly. You can watch this position happen naturally as you extend the spring spreader, taking care that both shackles stay in approximate similar angles, without one or the other becoming overextended to an opposite position. At that time, shackle collars will come free easily, having no pressure to stay in place.
 
Bolts: Follow the advice of V8 and remove the entire rear end with the spring as one unit after installing your 15 in plywood wheels with the 5 x 5 1/2 in. bolt pattern.Then roll the assembly out from under your car and remove the spring using the spreader. It will save you tons of frustration in the long run. In the photos below I knew my (home made) shackles would be easy to remove and re-install so I left the spring hanging in place.

Take photos of how it all goes together as you take it apart.

While you have the rear out check the universal joint for play (should be zero play). I refilled the clamshell with cornhead grease. Takes about 2 tubes. Also a good time to replace rubber hose for rear brake lines, if needed. I used the following 0-ring seal and gaskets for the clamshell. Works better than stock cork. REMEMBER TO PUT THE CLAMSHELL GASKETS IN PLACE FIRST BEFORE RECONNECTING THE DRIVE SHAFT SPLINES AND TORQUE TUBE CLAM SHELL.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-flathe...m3a7ffa88a8:m:mHN4d-TolrcVhkvi3zOMRMQ&vxp=mtr
 

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Dont forget about the discontecting of the brake cable , brake line , removale of turtle, circlip, clams ... And a lot of swearing...
 
The car is a 1948, you don't need a spring spreader.
The shackles are relaxed on these, just take the weight and undo the shakles job done.
Martin.
 
You do not need the spring spreader. Pull the rear end and spring as a unit. Just jack up the rear end undo the clam shell, flex line, brake cables, speedo cable, shocks, and the u bolts. The rear end will roll out and the spring can be taken off.
 
Bolts, one last thought. Remove the speedo-gear turtle cover when you fill the clamshell with cornhead grease.
That way you can see when the shell is full.
 

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Guess I missed something.. Was wondering why you are taking the rear end apart?
If this is being done due to a leaking axle seal, why not just solve the problem by adding an aftermarket external seal..
I hope you know that the axle housing gaskets are very critical for thickness, the thickness of the gasket determines the gear lash for the ring/pinion.. The original Ford type of axle housing gasket came in layers which could be pealed off in one-thousand's to achieve the correct lash. Refrain from using RTV/silicon type sealants, very hard to control the thickness..
 
I agree with placing the frame on stands, then using a floor jack under the ends of the spring to release tension on the shackles to remove and replace them. If you are removing the spring assembly after the shackles are off to work on it, be sure to use a new center bolt when you put it together, and orient the head of the bolt parallel to the spring so it will enter the hole in the cross member. We use a couple of big "C" clamps to hold the spring while the bolt is tightened. Those springs have a lot of power, so be careful.
 
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